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{{short description|Type of model}} | |||
'''Plus-size model''' is a term internationally applied to a woman who is engaged primarily in modeling garments that are designed and marketed specifically for larger body sizes and types from the traditional accepted size. (see ]). These models are also increasingly engaging in advertising and other work that is not strictly related to selling clothing, i.e. body acceptance commentary, ], beauty and cosmetic products marketing, pharmaceutical advertising, footwear, etc. As such, plus-size models often do not wear garments designed and marketed as plus-size clothing. This is especially true of editorials in mainstream fashion magazines. | |||
{{Use dmy dates|date=September 2020}} | |||
], model for ], then muse of ], at the ].]] | |||
A '''plus-size model''' is an individual size 12 and above who is engaged primarily in ] ]. Plus-size clothing worn by plus-size models is typically catering for and marketed to either big, tall or overweight men and women. Plus-size models also engage in work that is not strictly related to selling clothing, e.g., ] and advertising photography for cosmetics, household and pharmaceutical products and sunglasses, footwear and watches{{Citation needed|date=July 2014}}. Therefore, plus-size models do not exclusively wear garments marketed as plus-size clothing. This is especially true when participating in fashion ]s for mainstream fashion magazines.{{Citation needed|date=July 2014}} | |||
Synonymous and interchangeable with plus-size model is "full-figured model",<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.plus-model-mag.com/2013/05/ashley-stewart-and-plus-model-magazine-launch-nationwide-search-for-full-figured-models/ |title=Ashley Stewart and Plus Model Magazine Launch Nationwide Search for Full-figured Models |work=PlusModel |date=2014-05-13 |access-date=2014-04-23 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160329012740/http://www.plus-model-mag.com/2013/05/ashley-stewart-and-plus-model-magazine-launch-nationwide-search-for-full-figured-models/ |archive-date=29 March 2016 }}</ref> "extended-sizes model", "over-weight model", "fat model" and "outsize model". Previously, the term "large size model" was also frequently used.<ref name=Schiro1979>{{cite news |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=uAJcAAAAIBAJ&pg=4103,1631931&dq=large-size-model&hl=en |title=Large Size Fashion Models in Demand |author=Schiro, Anne Marie |date=7 June 1979 |work=Times-Union |agency=New York Times News Service |access-date=30 May 2015}}</ref><ref name=Sizeaplus>{{cite news |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=T0cuAAAAIBAJ&pg=7093,5771059&dq=large-size-model&hl=en |title=Size is a plus for head of model agency |date=18 May 1986 |work=Tuscaloosa News |agency=Associated Press |access-date=17 January 2013}}</ref> | |||
The requirements for plus-size models are no different from those of high-fashion models, excepting in larger overall bust-waist-hip measurements; they must have excellent skin, hair and teeth, and emote well to the camera. The type of work that plus-size models engage in is of comparable variety to that of their smaller-sized counterparts. Advertising campaigns, magazine editorials, catwalk work, live-TV work and commercials, etc. comprise the variety of work available. Increasingly, plus-size models are also being employed by the media to stimulate debate on healthy self-esteem and body image, especially regarding struggles with ]s. | |||
==Plus-size industry == | |||
Synonymous and interchangeable with plus-size model is 'full-figured model', 'extended-sizes model', 'outsize model' (predominant usage:UK). | |||
] | |||
Fashion designers are starting to look more closely at the earning potential from plus-size clothing, and have used plus-size models for their advertising campaigns and catwalks. ] and ] both used plus-size models<ref>Crystal Renn (Jean Paul Gaultier), Johanna Dray (John Galliano)</ref> in their Spring 2006 showings in Paris.<ref>{{cite web |title=Crystal Shines On |url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2010/07/14/crystal-renn-for-jean-paul-gaultier |author=Deeks, Sarah |date=14 July 2010 |work=Vogue |location=UK |access-date=1 March 2012}}</ref> Gaultier also used plus-size models Marquita Pring and ] in his Spring 2011 ] show.<ref name="Model Call: Marquita Pring">{{cite web |url=http://www.wwd.com/eye/fashion/model-call-marquita-pring-5007890 |title=Model Call: Marqsuita Pring |work=Women's Wear Daily |date=26 July 2011 |access-date=16 February 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.cbsnews.com/news/crystal-renn-takes-on-paris-fashion-week-walks-in-three-big-shows/ |title=Crystal Renn Takes on Paris Fashion Week, Walks in Three Big Shows |author=Lee, Joyce |date=7 October 2010 |publisher=CBS |access-date=1 March 2012}}</ref> Italian plus-size fashion house Elena Mirò now regularly stages biannual ] shows during ].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.glamour.com/fashion/blogs/slaves-to-fashion/2010/09/plus-size-line-elena-miro-is-e.html |title=Plus Size Line Elena Miro Is Excluded From The Official Milan Fashion Week Schedule |author=Lomrantz, Tracy |date=22 September 2010 |work=Glamour |access-date=1 March 2012}}</ref> Mark Fast<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://www.farfetch.com/designers/women |title=farfetch.com - a new way to shop for fashion |website=www.farfetch.com}}</ref> and ]<ref>{{cite web |url=http://thefashionscoutsept09.blogspot.com/2009/09/william-tempest.html |title=The Fashion Scout: William Tempest |first=The Fashion |last=Scout |date=22 September 2009}}</ref> each used plus-size models during their own ] showings for Spring 2009, and again as part of All Walks Beyond the Catwalk<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://allwalksbeyondthecatwalk.org/blog/?cat=4 |title=All Walks Beyond the Catwalk, 18 September 2009 |access-date=27 January 2010 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091019134913/http://allwalksbeyondthecatwalk.org/blog/?cat=4 |archive-date=19 October 2009 }}</ref> event held on 19 September 2009 in association with the ]. Mark Fast also used plus-size models in Fall 2010, Fall 2011,<ref>{{cite web |url=http://madisonplus.com/mp-daily/12-model-uk-and-mark-fast |title=12+ Model UK and Mark Fast |date=20 February 2010 |work=madisonplus.com |publisher=Madison Plus |access-date=1 March 2012}}</ref> and Spring 2012.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2012RTW-MFAST/?iphoto=27#slide=27 |title=Mark Fast RTW Spring 2012 |work=style.com |access-date=1 March 2012}}</ref> Mr. Debonair of Beautiful You Fashion Tour uses plus-size models in shows around the world, including during the Beautiful You fashion show during New York Fashion Week 2022 which included Ms. Plus Intercontinental 2021 title holder Wendy Roach.<ref>{{Cite web |title=BeautifulMode.com |url=http://www.beautifulmode.com/ |access-date=2022-02-14 |website=www.beautifulmode.com}}</ref> Plus-size models became increasingly represented in high fashion after 2020 but saw a decline in early 2023 when ultrathin models made a comeback.<ref>{{cite web|last=Roby|first=India|title=What Does the Future of Size Diversity on the Runway Look Like?|date=12 October 2022|website=Fashionista|url=https://fashionista.com/2022/10/size-diversity-runway-fashion-week-spring-2023}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|last=Paton|first=Elizabeth|title= | |||
Why Did Ultrathin Models Make a Comeback at Fashion Week?|work=The New York Times|date=11 March 2023|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2023/03/11/fashion/why-did-ultrathin-models-make-a-comeback-at-fashion-week.html}}</ref> | |||
=== Origins in North America === | |||
==The Business== | |||
] Spring/Summer 1954 catalog.]] | |||
As the development of the industry is closely tied to Western population change and clothing industry growth, the plus-size model industry has grown in fairly equal strides at various points on the globe. Many model agencies have created divisions to specifically locate and develop potential models to serve demand. | |||
] began trading in the early 1900s as a producer of clothing for "Expectant Mothers and Newborn"'.<ref name=MiamiHerald>{{cite web |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=_rcyAAAAIBAJ&pg=691,5232587&dq=lane-bryant&hl=en |title=Lane Bryant Started by a Woman |date=30 September 1962 |work=The Miami Herald |access-date=10 January 2012}}</ref> By the early 1920s, Lane Bryant started selling clothing under the category 'For the Stout Women', which ranged between a 38–56 inch bustline.<ref name=MiamiHerald/> The earliest catalogs used illustrations to sell their products, but by the mid-1950s photographs were integrated into the catalogs as the evolution of printing technology made this option available. After a hiatus through the 1960–1980 period, Lane Bryant again began using plus-size models. | |||
=== Specialty model agency divisions === | |||
High fashion designers are starting to look more closely at the earning potential from serving consumers wearing plus-size clothing with ], and have started booking plus-size models for their advertising campaigns and catwalks. ] and ] both used plus-size models in their Spring 2006 showings in Paris. Italian plus-size fashion house ] now regularly stages a ] show during Fashion Week in Milan. | |||
Plus size models were first represented by model agencies in the 1970s.<ref name=":0">{{Cite news |last=Stewart |first=Anna |date=July 9, 1979 |title=Big is Beautiful, Large is Lovely, Size 16 is Sexy - and Two Models Cash in On the Trend |volume=12 |pages=86–7 |work=People Magazine |publisher=Time, Inc. |issue=2 |department=In Style |type=Hard copy of magazine (along with URL for archives) |url=https://people.com/archive/big-is-beautiful-large-is-lovely-size-16-is-sexy-and-two-models-cash-in-on-the-trend-vol-12-no-2/ |access-date=July 21, 2022}}</ref> Prior to this, models freelanced directly with retailers, designers and magazines.<ref name="Hour"/> Former plus-size model ] owned Big Beauties Little Women, the first agency specializing in plus-size and petite models in 1977.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1350&dat=19840405&id=30VPAAAAIBAJ&pg=6880,1905409 |title=Founder of Big Beauties battles thin attitudes |date=5 April 1984 |author=Russel Stewart, Rose |work=Toledo Blade |access-date=27 July 2012}}</ref> Pat Swift, a plus-size model at the time, founded Plus Models in 1978.<ref name="Hour">{{cite news |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=QUsjAAAAIBAJ&pg=1257,4104488&dq=large+size+clothing&hl=en |title=Clothing makers woo plus-size shoppers |agency=Associated Press |date=21 May 1987 |work=The Hour |access-date=27 July 2012}}</ref> ] began representing plus size models in 1978, and added two models to their board, including top model Ann Harper, due to demand from clients.<ref name=Schiro1979 /> By the late 1980s, Plus Models was the largest and most successful plus-size specialty agency, representing over 65 models and grossing over 2 million dollars in revenue.<ref name="Hour"/> By 1984, Big Beauties Little Women was successful enough to run national model searches advertised in the press.<ref name="nl.newsbank.com">{{cite news |url=http://nl.newsbank.com/nl-search/we/Archives?p_product=LH&s_site=kentucky&p_multi=LH&p_theme=realcities&p_action=search&p_maxdocs=200&p_topdoc=1&p_text_direct-0=0EB736C45AE7E03C&p_field_direct-0=document_id&p_perpage=10&p_sort=YMD_date:D&s_trackval=GooglePM |title=This Model Doesn't Have To Stay Thin |date=10 June 1984 |work=Lexington Herald-Leader |access-date=27 July 2012}}</ref> 18-year old Angelia Taylor was the first winner of the inaugural Big Beauty Model Search in 1984. The prize included the cover of It's Me magazine, a nationally published magazine for plus-size women.<ref name="nl.newsbank.com"/> Not long after, Plus Models began holding national model searches. By the mid-1980s, top plus size models could earn as much as 150,000 to 200,000 dollars a year.<ref name=Sizeaplus/> Ford Models bought Big Beauties Little Women in 1988, later renaming the division Special Sizes and then Ford 12+.<ref>{{cite news |url=http://nl.newsbank.com/nl-search/we/Archives?p_product=CSTB&p_theme=cstb&p_action=search&p_maxdocs=200&p_topdoc=1&p_text_direct-0=0EB36E145016325E&p_field_direct-0=document_id&p_perpage=10&p_sort=YMD_date:D&s_trackval=GooglePM |title=Majority of U. S. women fit into the 'special' sizes |author=Boies, Elaine |date=20 November 1988 |work=Chicago Sun-Times |access-date=27 July 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |url=http://nl.newsbank.com/nl-search/we/Archives?p_product=SL&p_theme=sl&p_action=search&p_maxdocs=200&p_topdoc=1&p_text_direct-0=0EB04CF2B4E638C0&p_field_direct-0=document_id&p_perpage=10&p_sort=YMD_date:D&s_trackval=GooglePM |title=A Plus: No More Back To Basics |author=Cloud, Barbara |date=6 December 1990 |work=St. Louis Post-Dispatch |access-date=27 July 2012}}</ref> | |||
] agent Susan Georget started the ''Wilhelmina 10/20'' division in New York in 1994, recently re-branded W Curve.<ref name="Odell, Amy"/><ref name="Jones, Maddy">{{cite web |title=Passion, Drive, and Intuitiveness- Susan Georget is Back! |date=12 August 2011 |author=Jones, Maddy |url=http://www.plus-model-mag.com/2011/08/passion-drive-and-intuitiveness-susan-georget-is-back/ |publisher=Plus Model Magazine |access-date=14 April 2012}}</ref> Gary Dakin headed New York's Karin Models' ''Curves'' division, only to leave after a short time to develop Ford Models' ''Ford 12+''(rebranded Ford+) model division in their New York office in 1998.<ref name="Odell, Amy">{{cite magazine |title=The Rise of the Plus-Size Model |date=9 February 2011 |author=Odell, Amy |url=http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2011/02/plus-sized_models.html |magazine=New York |access-date=14 April 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.curve-film.com/agents.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20011213112046/http://www.curve-film.com/agents.html |archive-date=2001-12-13 |title=Making It big:The Agents |work=curve-film.com |publisher=Constantine Varhouli |access-date=18 July 2012}}</ref> In Constantine Valhouli's 2001 plus-size model documentary ''Curve'', Dakin states, "We're celebrating our 25th anniversary of the Ford 12+ division. It was the first and longest-existing plus division in the industry."(sic) Together, these agents created agency divisions that have continued to recruit the highest caliber of models in the industry and are credited with expanding opportunities for plus-size models beyond working solely for plus-size clothing retailers.<ref name="Odell, Amy"/><ref name="Jones, Maddy"/> | |||
Arguably the largest region of industry growth has been within '''North America''', where a diverse population and encouraging media has created a unique culture around plus-size modeling, and enabled the ongoing operation of approximately 25+ agencies either specifically representing plus-size models or with divisions to do so. The industry at an international level also includes several well-established agencies in England, Germany and Australia, collectively serving clients throughout Western and Central Europe, South Africa, and the South Pacific and Asian regions. Plus-size models have been serving the strong German client market for over 15 years. | |||
Former plus-size model Becca Thorpe founded the plus-size division at Muse Model Management, a boutique fashion agency in 2011.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://plusizedating.com/ |title=Ex-Plus Size Model Opens Up New Plus Size Division at Muse NYC |author=Jones, Madeline |date=13 October 2011 |work=plus-model-mag.com |publisher=Plus Model Magazine |access-date=5 August 2012}}</ref> Muse also recruits high caliber models and had advanced opportunities for plus-size models beyond advertising for plus-size retailers. | |||
===Development of the industry in the United States=== | |||
Although it is known that U.S.-based manufacturers used larger models to show their plus-size clothing as early as the 1940s, the bias against larger consumers and models pervasive in the fashion industry worked to keep this particular concept of modeling out of the general public's eye until the early 1990s. | |||
Ford Models closed its plus-size division in June 2013 to focus on its editorial divisions.<ref name=FashionistaJag>{{cite web |last=Chernikoff |first=Leah |title=First Modeling Agency Devoted to Girls of All Sizes Sets Up Shop in NYC |url=http://fashionista.com/2013/07/first-modeling-agency-devoted-to-girls-of-all-sizes-sets-up-shop-in-nyc/ |work=fashionista.com |access-date=29 October 2013}}</ref> Gary Dakin and Jaclyn Sarka founded Jag Models in July 2013, which currently represents about 30 models sizes 8-18.<ref name=FashionistaJag/> The agency does not brand its models as plus-size.<ref name=FashionistaJag/><ref>{{cite web |last=Chang |first=Juju |title=Jag Model Agency Pledges to Feature 'Real Women' |url=https://abcnews.go.com/blogs/lifestyle/2013/08/jag-model-agency-pledges-to-feature-real-women/ |publisher=ABC News |access-date=29 October 2013}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |last=Stewart |first=Sara |title=NYC modeling agency showcases full-figured beauties to mirror the real world |url=https://nypost.com/2013/08/20/nyc-modeling-agency-showcases-full-figured-beauties-to-mirror-the-real-world/ |work=New York Post |access-date=29 October 2013 |date=20 August 2013}}</ref> | |||
''']''' is widely acknowledged to have been the first large-scale producer of plus-size clothing in North America and therefore user of plus-size models. It began trading in the early 1920s as a producer of clothing for 'Expectant Mothers and Newborns'. By the mid-1920s, Lane Bryant started selling clothing under the category 'For the Stout Women', which ranged between a 38-56 inch bustline. The earliest catalogs used illustrations only to sell their products, but by the mid-1940s photographs were integrated into the catalogs as the evolution of photo technology made this option available. After a brief hiatus from using larger models through the 1960-1970 period, Lane Bryant again began using plus-size models and today remains one of the plus-size model industry's most prestigious and desired clients. | |||
There are a large number of reputable agencies throughout the U.S. and Canada, and internationally in Australia, Belgium, Brazil, ], Denmark, France, Germany, Ireland, Italy, ], Spain, Switzerland, ], Turkey and the UK.<ref>{{cite web |title=List of US Model Agencies |url=http://www.plusmodelmag.com/general/plus-model-marketplace-vendors.asp?link-type=MODAGENTUS |publisher=Plus Model Magazine |access-date=14 April 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=List of International Model Agencies |url=http://www.plusmodelmag.com/general/plus-model-marketplace-vendors.asp?link-type=MODAGENTIN |publisher=Plus Model Magazine |access-date=14 April 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.elle.co.za/do-you-have-what-it-takes-to-be-a-plus-size-model/ |title=Do You Have What It Takes To Be A Plus-Size Model? |date=18 October 2011 |work=elle.co.za |access-date=19 January 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121109022521/http://www.elle.co.za/do-you-have-what-it-takes-to-be-a-plus-size-model/ |archive-date=9 November 2012 }}</ref> | |||
US retailer '''Spiegel Catalog''' launched the ''For You From Spiegel'' clothing division in the late 1980s. In 1989 the company launched a three year media campaign with one model contracted to Spiegel as the official spokeswoman for the brand, said to be the first contract of its kind <ref>cite source of information or this will be edited/removed as original research</ref> within the plus-size industry. | |||
===Specialty media and other ventures in North America=== | |||
In 1979 '''Carol Shaw''' founded ] magazine (more commonly known via the acronym '''BBW''') and claims credit for introducing the acronym into common use among readers and eventually into public domain. BBW was one of the first publications in the US that catered specifically to plus-size clothing consumers. Shaw sold the magazine to LFP, Inc., and the magazine ceased publication in 1995. The brand was sold onwards<ref></ref> and although it was resurrected in print via several different editor and publisher combinations as a magazine it continued to falter, ceasing publication in its last incarnation permanently in the late 1990s. BBW now exists as an online community surrounding archived material from the magazine's duration in print. | |||
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In 1979 '']'' magazine (more commonly known via the acronym ''BBW'') began publication and was one of the first publications in the US catering specifically to plus-size clothing consumers.<ref name=":0" /> It ceased publication in 1995, but the "BBW" brand was sold onwards.<ref name="BBW Magazine, Past and Present">{{cite web |url=http://www.bbwmagazine.com/pastandpresent_3.htm |title=BBW Magazine, Past and Present |publisher=BBW Magazine |access-date=31 March 2009 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130127090055/http://www.bbwmagazine.com/pastandpresent_3.htm |archive-date=27 January 2013 }}</ref> Although it continued in print via several editor-and-publisher combinations it continued to falter, finally ceasing print publication after 23 years with the April/May 2003 issue.<ref name="BBW Magazine, Past and Present"/> BBW is now an online community surrounding archived material from the magazine.<ref name="BBW Magazine, Past and Present"/> | |||
In Spring 1981, Lane Bryant began publishing ''It's Me'' magazine. Along with ''Big Beautiful Woman'', ''It's Me'' was one of the few print magazines for plus-size women.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=x34hAAAAIBAJ&pg=7001,2046588&dq=it%27s-me+magazine&hl=en |title=New magazine favors larger woman |author=Cannon, Carl |date=11 April 1982 |work=Tri City Herald |access-date=27 July 2012}}</ref> In 1982, the magazine was sold to Happy Hands Publishing Company.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1982/10/15/business/advertising-it-s-me-magazine-sold-to-texas-company.html |title=It's Me Magazine Sold to Texas Company |author=Dougherty, Phillip M. |date=15 October 1982 |work=The New York Times}}</ref> | |||
With strong cooperation from Wilhelmina 10/20, Curves and Ford 12+, the premiere issue of '''] Magazine''' was launched in the spring of 1997 to immediate success. No other fashion magazine specifically targeted the plus-size consumer with a '']''-like fashion philosophy, nor with sophisticated imagery. As a result, a booking with the magazine was viewed as the ultimate level of plus-modeling success. The editorial practice of including the models' names and quotations on self-esteem to make them more approachable greatly aided the popularity of the women featured and gave them a form of celebrity. MO''D''E also ran model search competitions in association with the Wilhelmina modelling agency, drawing entries from thousands of hopefuls from the US and Canada. The circulation of MO''D''E Magazine was around 600,000 at the time of its demise<ref></ref> in the aftermath of ]. | |||
In addition to magazines, books dedicated to plus size (aka "full figured") fashion and lifestyles began to be released from major publishers in the 1980s. Some of these include: ''Making It Big'' (1980),<ref>{{Cite book |last1=DuCoffe |first1=Jean |title=Making It Big: A Guide to Health, Success and Beauty For the Woman Size 16 and Over |last2=Cohen |first2=Sherry Suib |publisher=Simon and Schuster |year=1980 |isbn=0-671-25097-3 |location=New York, NY, USA |language=English}}</ref> ''The Big Beauty Book'' (1982),<ref>{{Cite book |last1=Harper |first1=Ann |title=The Big Beauty Book: Glamour for the Fuller-Figured Woman |last2=Lewis |first2=Glenn |publisher=Holt, Rinehart and Winston |year=1982 |isbn=0-03-060561-X |location=New York, NY, USA |language=English}}</ref> ''The Lane Bryant Fashion Math Make-Over'' (1987)<ref>{{Cite book |last1=Lulow |first1=Kalia |title=The Lane Bryant Fashion Math Make-Over |last2=Geddie |first2=Wanda |publisher=Dell |year=1987 |isbn=0-440-14597-X |location=New York, NY, U.S.A. |type=Paperback}}</ref> and ''Sizing Up'' (1989).<ref>{{Cite book |last=Head |first=Sandy Summers |title=Sizing Up: Fashion, Fitness and Self-Esteem for Full Figured Women |publisher=Fireside |year=1989 |isbn=0-671-67572-9 |location=New York, NY, USA |language=English}}</ref> | |||
In 1995, Lane Bryant began a transformation of the brand, targeting younger customers with more fashion-forward clothing. Through a series of runway shows and celebrity spokespersons including ], ], ], ], and ]<nowiki>'</nowiki>s ], Lane Bryant became the industry leader via its approach to marketing and advertising. In February 2000, Lane Bryant launched Cacique intimate apparel, and held the first lingerie fashion show for plus-size women. The event was widely acclaimed and created millions of impressions in the press. In 2002, more than 200 million people worldwide watched website playback of the Lane Bryant fashion show featuring 70s rock band KISS. In 2003, the fashion show<ref>] ]</ref> featured MC ] in a cabaret setting complete with ]-style singers and dancers, which Barr later described as being largely ignored by TV media. | |||
Spiegel catalog launched their For You from Spiegel plus-size collection in 1989 with ] as their official consultant and spokesmodel.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.chicagotribune.com/1990/12/19/make-the-most-of-your-best-points/ |work=Chicago Tribune |first=Marcy |last=Mason |title=Make The Most of Your Best Points |date=19 December 1990}}</ref> The three-year For You campaign included opening brick-and-mortar retail locations in upscale shopping centers. Previously, Spiegel had only been a mail-order merchant. As part of the full-scale plus-size outreach, Spiegel produced fashion videos that featured advice from image consultant Arroz, with commentary from some of the plus-size models who appeared in the video and catalog. Arroz became the fashion editor of ''BBW'' magazine after her stint with Spiegel. By the mid-1990s, all For You from Spiegel retail locations had closed.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/spiegel-inc-history/ |title=History of Spiegel, Inc. – FundingUniverse |website=www.fundinguniverse.com}}</ref> | |||
===The main players, U.S.=== | |||
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'''Gary Dakin''' headed the Karin Models' ''Curves'' division, only to leave after a short time to develop the ] agency's ''Ford 12+'' model division in their New York office. In Constantine Valhouli's 2001 plus-size model documentary '''Curve''', Dakin states, "We're celebrating our 25th anniversary of the Ford 12+ division. It was the first and longest-existing plus division in the industry."(sic) ] agent '''Susan Georget''' started the ''Wilhelmina 10/20'' division in New York 1994. Together, these agents have recruited the highest calibre of models in the industry and are credited with expanding opportunities for plus-size models beyond working solely for plus-size clothing retailers. Both agents are also regarded as holding the most power in the plus-size model industry, although Georget and Dakin have now removed themselves from day-to-day booking tasks. | |||
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In 1995, Lane Bryant began a transformation of the brand which included large-scale fashion showings and celebrity endorsement. ], ], ], ] and ] have appeared in advertising and/or events on behalf of the brand. Lane Bryant held a large-scale lingerie fashion show<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYPvdZIxWCo |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211219/QYPvdZIxWCo |archive-date=2021-12-19 |url-status=live |title=Lane Bryant runway show 2000 - Part 1 |last=Neidenburg |date=19 November 2009 |via=YouTube}}{{cbignore}}</ref> to launch the "Cacique Intimates" lingerie collection on 1 February 2000. The 2003 final large-scale catwalk show<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2u773_mia-tyler-walks-the-runway-for-lane_people |title=Mia Tyler walks the runway for Lane Bryant Spring 2003 - vidéo Dailymotion |date=26 August 2007}}</ref> featured ] as Matron of Ceremonies in a cabaret setting complete with ]-style singers and dancers. | |||
===Setbacks to growth, U.S.=== | |||
Occurring shortly before the time of MO''D''E's closure was the failure of several designers' ventures into the plus-size market. Versace (''Versatile''), Valentino (''Carisma''), ''Anne Klein Plus'' and others ceased producing the clothing which MO''D''E Magazine relied upon, leaving a gaping hole in both the fashion department wardrobes and advertising revenue coffers of MO''D''E Magazine and its successor/s. | |||
Lane Bryant was acquired by ] for $335 million in August 2001. In 2003 a cost-reduction plan<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.digital50.com/news/items/PR/2005/03/16/NYW041/charming-shoppes-reports-preliminary-unaudited-fourth-quarter-and-full-year-results.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070928091835/http://www.digital50.com/news/items/PR/2005/03/16/NYW041/charming-shoppes-reports-preliminary-unaudited-fourth-quarter-and-full-year-results.html |archive-date=2007-09-28 |title=Charming Shoppes Reports Preliminary, Unaudited Fourth Quarter and Full Year Results |work=Digital50}}</ref> was announced to improve the company's pre-tax position by $45 million. Shortly afterwards, the annual Lane Bryant fashion show ceased production. | |||
* After the demise of MO''D''E Magazine its then Executive Editor, Ceslie Armstrong, and many of the ex-MO''D''E staff collaborated to create ''Grace Magazine'', which launched on May 14, 2002 as an independent quarterly publication and website under a similar concept. Even though the initial 400,000 print run sold out quickly, and the magazine's issues were brimming with advertising, the independent status and limited funding prohibited the ability to grow to fill the newsstand and subscription orders. Critics, however, believed that Grace featured far less stylish fashion content than its predecessor and unwisely pursued an editorial emphasis on weight-related health issues. Grace Magazine ceased operation due to lack of funding in November 2003, after publishing just 10 issues. | |||
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With strong cooperation from Wilhelmina 10/20, Curves and Ford 12+ agencies, '']'' magazine, was launched in the spring of 1997.<ref name="Herman, Valli">{{cite web |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=U3UzAAAAIBAJ&pg=5446,6750896&dq=givenchy+plus-size&hl=en |title=Fashion Mode |date=19 May 1998 |author=Herman, Valli |work=The Spokesman-Review |access-date=28 July 2012}}</ref> No other fashion magazine specifically targeted the plus-size consumer with a '']''-like fashion philosophy.<ref name="Herman, Valli"/> MO''D''E's editorial practice of providing models' names, sometimes attached to quotes on self-esteem to make them more approachable, greatly aided the popularity of the models and gave them a form of celebrity.<ref name=Mogel>{{cite book |last1=Mogel |first1=Leonard |title=The Magazine |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=AbGsXKFRhh0C&q=lewinter+mode&pg=PA106 |access-date=27 December 2012 |edition=4th |year=1998 |publisher=GATF Press |location=Sewickly, Pennsylvania |isbn=0-88362-223-8 |pages=106–107}}</ref> The magazine also received industry acclaim, being named the best new magazine launch by ] and ] in 1997.<ref name="Herman, Valli"/> MO''D''E ran model search competitions in conjunction with the Wilhelmina modeling agency, drawing entries from thousands of hopefuls from the US and Canada.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.plusmodelmag.com/General/plus-model-magazine-article-detail.asp?article-id=910380941 |title=Interview With Cover Model Jordan Tesfay |author=Jones, Maddy |date=1 May 2010 |publisher=Plus Model Magazine |access-date=14 April 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130515092730/http://www.plusmodelmag.com/General/plus-model-magazine-article-detail.asp?article-id=910380941 |archive-date=15 May 2013 }}</ref> | |||
* Lane Bryant was acquired by ] for $335 million in August 2001, and in 2003 a was announced to improve the company's pre-tax position by $45 million. Shortly afterwards, the annual big-budget Lane Bryant fashion show ceased production, however the redress was to come later in the form of Charming Shoppes' custom ] magazine, ''Figure''. Although it featured only Charming Shoppes' own product and related lifestyle articles, it remained the only U.S.-based fashion and lifestyle magazine specifically-targeted for plus-size consumers up to the time of its announced closure after the publication of the March/April 2009 issue <ref>http://www.figuremagazine.com</ref>. | |||
Occurring shortly before the time of ''MODE''{{'}}s closure was the failure of several designers' ventures into the plus-size market. ] (''GV Versatile Couture''), ] (''Carisma''), and others ceased producing the clothing which ''MODE'' relied upon, leaving an unfortunate deficit in the fashion department wardrobes and advertising revenue coffers of MO''D''E magazine and its successors.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=b_gaAAAAIBAJ&pg=4323,948065&dq=lewit+winter+mode&hl=en |title=Full-figured women get their fashion desserts a la Mode |author=Gottschalk, Mary |date=7 March 1997 |work=The Daily News |access-date=28 July 2012}}</ref> Its circulation was approximately 600,000 at the time of its demise<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.freedom.com/company/archive_122801.html |title=Freedom Communications, Inc. - Company News |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120912081804/http://www.freedom.com/company/archive_122801.html |archive-date=12 September 2012}}</ref> in late 2001. | |||
===State of the U.S. industry today=== | |||
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While the Internet has provided a breeding ground for a growing number of grassroot ], model agencies, online retailers, calendar projects and other associated ventures, the lack of a true fashion print publication serving the plus-size consumer in North America has compounded the stagnation in the growth of the North American plus-model industry. With supply of models currently much higher than demand from clients now struggling with reduced advertising budgets, and agencies raising model standards and tightening their belts financially and reducing the number of models they represent, a substantial nudge is required for the industry to experience a growth comparable to that which it enjoyed in the late 1990s. | |||
''Grace Magazine'' was launched on 14 May 2002 by MO''D''E magazine's last executive editor, Ceslie Armstrong, and many of the ex-MO''D''E staff as an independent quarterly publication and website under a similar concept.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.travelwriters.com/articles/view.asp?articleID=167 |archive-url=https://archive.today/20130204150402/http://www.travelwriters.com/articles/view.asp?articleID=167 |archive-date=4 February 2013 |title=Former Mode Editor to Try Again |author=Aaaronson, Trevor |date=7 May 2002 |work=travelwriters.com |publisher=Marco Polo Publications, Inc. |access-date=28 July 2012}}</ref> Even though the initial 400,000 print run sold out quickly and advertising revenue appeared high, the independent status and limited funding prohibited the ability to grow to fill the newsstand and subscription orders. Critics,{{Citation needed|date=March 2010}} however, believed that ''Grace'' featured far less stylish fashion content than its predecessor and unwisely pursued an editorial emphasis on weight-related health issues. ''Grace Magazine'' ceased operation due to lack of funding in November 2003, after publishing 10 issues. | |||
The April and May 2007 U.S. editions of '']'' and '']'' have featured plus-size models in fashion editorials and interview regarding healthy body image. While some believe the discussion of self-esteem and body image is not the primary business of the plus-size model, this type of coverage in mainstream media does serve the purpose of furthering the potential for growth as the media embraces models over a U.S. size 12 and shows them in a positive light. It should be noted that a bare handful of models are being used repeatedly in this regard, creating the impression that only a few models are 'acceptable' to the media in portraying the concept of plus-size modeling and the associated industry. | |||
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Charming Shoppes' custom ] magazine, ''Figure'', was launched in 2002 and was revamped during 2006.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.magazine.org/content/Files/figure072606.pdf |title=The New Shape of ''Figure'' Magazine: Fashion Magazine for Plus-Size Women Re-launches |work=magazine.org |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120321192812/http://www.magazine.org/content/Files/figure072606.pdf |archive-date=21 March 2012 }}</ref> Although it featured only Charming Shoppes' own products and related lifestyle articles, it remained the only fashion and lifestyle print magazine specifically targeted for plus-size consumers until its announced closure after the publication of the March/April 2009 issue.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.figuremagazine.com/ |title=Figuremagazine.com |website=www.figuremagazine.com}}</ref> | |||
U.S. television program ] has featured contestants<ref>Robin Manning/Cycle 1, Anna Bradfield/Cycle 2, ]/Cycle 3, Diane Hernandez/Cycle 5, Diana Zalewski/Cycle 8, Whitney Cunningham/Cycle 8, Sarah Hartshorne/Cycle 9, Whitney Thompson/Cycle 10</ref> acknowledging the plus-size industry's relevance to fashion since the show's launch in 2003. After elimination from the competition some of the contestants have signed contracts with the Wilhelmina agency, although to date none have successfully translated their TV celebrity into an ongoing modeling career. ], the winner of ], will appear in a national campaign for ] cosmetics, as well as on the cover of '']'' as part of her prize package. She also received a model contract with ], but since the expiry of the contract has moved to Wilhelmina Models' NYC office. | |||
U.S. television program '']'' has featured contestants<ref>Robin Manning/Cycle 1, Anna Bradfield/Cycle 2, ]/Cycle 3, Diane Hernandez/Cycle 5, Diana Zalewski/Cycle 8, Whitney Cunningham/Cycle 8, Sarah Hartshorne/Cycle 9, Whitney Thompson/Cycle 10, Kortnie Coles/Cycle 12, Alexandra Underwood/Cycle 14, Seymone Cohen-Fobish/Cycle 18, Louise Watts/Cycle 18, Yvonne Powless/Cycle 19, Chlea Ramirez/Cycle 20, Ivana Thomas/Cycle 24, Liz Woodbury/Cycle 24, and Khrystyana Kazakova/Cycle 24</ref> acknowledging the plus-size industry's relevance to fashion since the show's launch in 2003. After elimination from the competition several of the contestants have signed contracts with the Wilhelmina agency, although only Kortnie Coles, Diane Hernandez, ], ], Yvonne Powless, Khrystyana Kazakova, Liz Woodbury, and Alexandra Underwood have successfully translated their TV celebrity into ongoing modeling careers. | |||
2007 was the launch year for several homegrown calendar projects featuring models over a U.S. size 12, including the well-publicized ''Luscious'' and ''Fenomenal Calendar'' products. These calendars have tested the market for plus-size models to be seen outside of clothing-advertisement-only contexts, and have captured the interest of people outside of the plus-size clothing consumer demographic. | |||
Several homegrown calendar projects featuring models over a U.S. size 12 were launched in 2007, including the well-publicized ''Luscious'' and ''Fenomenal Calendar'' products from North America. To date, no calendar has been successful enough to continue beyond its initial launch year.{{citation needed|date=May 2015}} | |||
Canadian publication ] has included specifically produced plus-size inserts since 2008. Echoing '''Figure''''s ] relationship to Lane Bryant, LouLou's supplement features products from ] group of plus-size apparel companies (Addition-Elle, MXM, Pennington's) within its pages. | |||
Plus Model Magazine, an online publication was launched in 2006 by Madeline Figueroa-Jones, a former plus-size model. The magazine features beauty and fashion editorials, beauty and fashion tips, modeling advice and interviews with plus-size celebrities as well as people working in all facets of the plus-size clothing industry.<ref name="Plus Model Magazine">{{cite web |url=http://www.plusmodelmag.com/General/plus-model-masthead-detail.asp?directory-id=703164775 |title=PLUS Model Magazine Masthead: Madeline Figueroa-Jones |work=plusmodelmagazine.com |publisher=Plus Model Magazine |access-date=27 July 2012}}</ref> Plus Model Magazine launched an online podcast in 2008 hosted by model, actress and host ], which has interviews with plus-size celebrities and people working in all facets of the plus-size clothing industry.<ref name="Plus Model Magazine"/> The magazine gained attention in many media outlets worldwide by publishing an editorial commenting on body image and the fashion industry.<ref name="Lovett, Edward">{{cite web |url=https://abcnews.go.com/blogs/headlines/2012/01/most-models-meet-criteria-for-anorexia-size-6-is-plus-size-magazine/ |title=Most Models Meet Criteria for Anorexia, Size 6 Is Plus Size: Magazine |author=Lovett, Edward |date=12 January 2012 |publisher=ABC News |access-date=27 July 2012}}</ref> The editorial featured plus-size model ] photographed nude alongside a straight-size model.<ref name="Lovett, Edward"/> | |||
==Notable plus-size models, North America== | |||
Canadian magazine '']'' has included specifically produced bi-annual plus-size fashion inserts featuring editorials and product pages since 2008. Echoing the ] relationship of ''Figure'' to Lane Bryant, ''LouLou''{{'}}s supplement features products from ] group of plus-size apparel companies (Addition-Elle, MXM, Pennington's) on its pages. | |||
* ] is acknowledged as the first plus-size model to achieve widespread recognition in the United States. She hosted ''Fashion Emergency'' on ] and has appeared on most major US TV networks. She was named one of ] magazine's "50 Most Beautiful People" twice (1994 and 1999) and ''Glamour'' magazine's "Woman of the Year" (1997). She has a collectible doll named for her, and bearing her likeness. | |||
'']'' U.S. has faltered on the continued use of recognisable plus-size models for the annual "Shape Issue" (April) issue; however British vocalist ] appeared on the March 2012 cover as the first overtly larger-sized cover subject since sportsman ] in April 2008.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.vogue.com/magazine/article/lebron-james-and-gisele-b252ndchen-dream-team/#1 |title=LeBron James and Gisele Bündchen: Dream Team |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140815040239/http://www.vogue.com/magazine/article/lebron-james-and-gisele-b252ndchen-dream-team/#1 |archive-date=15 August 2014 |author=Sullivan, Robert |work=Vogue}}</ref> U.S. '']'' has declared it will feature more plus-size models as editorial policy after the appearance of a small photograph of model Lizzie Miller caused a groundswell of positive comment.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.glamour.com/health-fitness/blogs/vitamin-g/2009/09/on-the-cl-are-you-ready-to-sta.html |title=Are you ready to start a body image revolution? |author=Lieve, Cindy |work=Glamour |date=September 2009 |access-date=21 July 2012}}</ref> | |||
* '''Barbara Brickner''' has become one of the most internationally familiar faces in plus-size modeling over her 10+ year career. Featuring constantly in MO''D''E Magazine and producing many of its most enduring images, she went on to become the preferred model of many plus-size designers; most notably for Italian company for several years, appearing by herself in their iconic calendar created in 2000. Also in 2000, Brickner launched a line of plus-size maternity clothing named ''BB Maternity'', sold through U.S. department stores. | |||
'']'' Quebec featured plus-size models three times on its cover: in May 1997, May 2013 and June 2014.<ref>{{cite web |title=Plus-size model graces the cover of Elle |url=http://www.aww.com.au/style/your-fashion/2013/5/plus-size-model-graces-the-cover-of-elle/ |work=aww.com.au |publisher=Australia Women's Weekly |access-date=2 January 2014 |date=2 May 2013}}</ref><ref>{{cite press release |author=<!--Staff writer(s); no by-line.--> |title=Elle Quebec Draws International Attention |url=http://tctranscontinental.com/documents/10180/38406/PressRelease_Ellequebec.pdf |publisher=TC Transcontinental |access-date=2 January 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140716044557/http://tctranscontinental.com/documents/10180/38406/PressRelease_Ellequebec.pdf |archive-date=16 July 2014 }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=Curvy Model Ashley Graham Covers ELLE Quebec June 2014 |url=http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/curvy-model-ashley-graham-covers-elle-quebec-june-2014/ |publisher=Fashion Gone Rogue |access-date=6 May 2014 |date=6 May 2014}}</ref> | |||
* '''Kate Dillon''' began her career as a size 6 with ], but after overcoming health issues (]) eventually relaunched her career as a U.S. size 14 plus-size model. Dillon enjoyed a fast rise to fame via the covers and editorials of MO''D''E Magazine, and has since notched up scores of advertising campaigns for top plus-size clothing retailers in the world. Dillon has appeared in several language editions of ], and has been photographed for high fashion magazines and campaigns by such photographers as ], ], ], ] and ], and has appeared in advertising for clients well outside of the usual plus-size œuvre such as ], Isabella Rossellini's 'Manifesto' perfume, and ]. Dillon was a featured guest during season 3 of the popular US network show '']'', talking to contestants about body image and self-esteem. | |||
High fashion print publication '']'' magazine featured seven agency-represented plus-size models in "The Size Issue" #63, photographed by prominent fashion photographers.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.vmagazine.com/fashion_article.php?n=14446 |title=Curves Ahead by Solve Sundsbo, featuring Candice Huffine, Marquita Pring, Kasia Pilewicz, Michelle Olson and Tara Lynn}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.vmagazine.com/fashion_article.php?n=14368 |title=One Size Fits All by Terry Richardson, featuring Crystal Renn}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.vmagazine.com/article.php?n=14505 |title=V love U just the way U R – Terry Tsiolas, featuring Inga Eiriksdottir}}</ref> | |||
* '''Natalie Laughlin''' was the first plus-size model to have an advertisement feature on a billboard in ]'s ], an honor repeated four times by client Liz Claiborne. Laughlin was also the first plus-size model to appear in the U.S. edition of '']'' magazine. | |||
* ''']''' is the most recent plus-size model to garner international appeal and has set a new standard for accomplishment. Like Dillon, Renn suffered from ] and became a plus-size model after regaining her health, and has notched up some remarkable successes in the few years she has been working at a larger size; multiple editorials in each of '']''<nowiki>'</nowiki>s U.S., Italian, French and German editions, and an appearance on the catwalk of ] for his Spring 2006 ] collection. Renn was also chosen by ] to model their apparel in an international print campaign, and appeared on the cover and a 16-page editorial for the December issue of "]". Renn's first book, "Hungry" (Simon and Schuster) is an autobiographical account of her experiences and will be released September 8, 2009. | |||
North American body care company, ], launched a ] where they included un-retouched photos of plus-size models, and models of all sizes, to emphasize the acceptance of all body shapes.<ref>{{Citation |last=Czerniawski |first=Amanda M. |title=Selling the Fat Body |date=2015-01-30 |work=Fashioning Fat |pages=129–158 |publisher=NYU Press |doi=10.18574/nyu/9780814770399.003.0006 |isbn=978-0-8147-7039-9}}</ref> | |||
* ''' Jordan Tesfay''' began her career after winning a MO''D''E Magazine model search competition in 1999. Tesfay was the first plus-model since ], and the first black plus-size model to appear in a nation-wide advertising campaign, for ] cosmetics. She also appeared in a minor role in the ] release of '']'', released in 2005. | |||
=== Origins in Europe === | |||
* ''']''' is the first plus-size model to win the reality-based TV show ]. Thompson began her modeling career at age 15<ref></ref> in her home state of Florida, appearing several times on the cover of her local "Jacksonville" community magazine. Thompson is 5'10" and a US size 10 <ref></ref>. She was 20 years of age at the time of her appearances on ANTM. Thompson is the first plus-size model to appear on the cover of ], on the July 2008 issue. | |||
European magazines, including European editions of Elle and Vogue have featured plus size models on covers and in editorials.<ref name=huffpolegaultellequebec>{{cite news |title=Elle Quebec's Plus-Size Cover Model Is Justine LeGault (PHOTO, VIDEO) |url=http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/05/03/elle-quebec-plus-size-cover-model_n_3207402.html |work=HuffPost |access-date=28 January 2014 |date=3 May 2013 |first=Ellie |last=Krupnick}}</ref><ref name=elle.com-taralynninterview>{{cite web |last=Valenti |first=Lauren |title=ELLE Spain Cover Model Tara Lynn: "It's Hard to Make Clothes Look Great on Big Women" |url=http://www.elle.com/news/fashion-style/tara-lynn-interview?src=spr_TWITTER&spr_id=1448_29932354&6699945=1 |work=Elle |publisher=Hearst Communications |access-date=28 January 2014 |date=8 November 2013}}</ref><ref name=huffpovogueitalia2011cover>{{cite news |last=Moss |first=Hillary |title=Vogue Italia Puts Three Plus-Size Models on June Cover (PHOTOS) |url=http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/06/03/vogue-italia-plus-size_n_870739.html |work=HuffPost |access-date=28 January 2014 |date=3 June 2011}}</ref> | |||
In France, the media ''ma grande taille'' is dedicated to plus size industry and ]. | |||
==Notable plus-size models, other regions== | |||
], a U.K.-based retailer, was founded in 1930.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.evans.co.uk/careers/about_us_history.html |title=Our History |work=evans.co.uk |access-date=17 January 2013}}</ref> Evans specializes in plus-sized clothing, lingerie, shoes and swimwear. | |||
* ''']''' was born in ], but became known as a plus-size model in the US while working for the clothing company ]. Coyle hosted a well-received UK reality TV show in 2006 named ''Fat Beauty Contest'', in which contestants learned the basics of catwalk modeling from Coyle in order to compete in a finale fashion show. | |||
] started ], one of the first high-end clothing lines, for plus-size women in 1980.<ref name="Agins, Teri">{{cite news |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=laZNAAAAIBAJ&pg=2659,6867013&dq=marina-rinaldi&hl=en |title=Queen sizes get a lift in the market |author=Agins, Teri |date=10 May 1996 |work=] |access-date=17 January 2013}}</ref> Marina Rinaldi started advertising in 1981.<ref name=MRhistory/> The line's campaigns were photographed by top photographers such as ], ], ], ], ], and ], used top models and celebrities(including ], ], ], and ]), and were featured in magazines and on billboards.<ref name=MRhistory>{{cite web |url=http://www.marinarinaldi.com/en/About-Us-History-and-Philosophy |title=History & Philosophy |work=marinarinaldi.com |access-date=17 January 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130203084223/http://www.marinarinaldi.com/en/About-Us-History-and-Philosophy |archive-date=3 February 2013}}</ref><ref name=Schiro>{{cite news |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1998/11/24/style/courting-women-big-and-small.html |title=Courting Women Big and Small |author=Schiro, Anne Marie |date=24 November 1998 |work=] |access-date=17 January 2013}}</ref> The ads were also the first to use the term plus size rather than outsize in Europe.<ref name=MRhistory/> | |||
* '''Johanna Dray''' of France notably appeared in ]'s 'Everybody is Beautiful' Spring 2006 ] show and subsequent French '']'' editorial of the collection, wearing what turned out to be Galliano's best-selling dress of the show. Utilizing her education in fashion design, Dray is the first plus-size model in Europe to launch a ] line, named ''Tend@nces en clair par Johanna Dray'', produced by catalog company . She has also appeared in interview with '']'' France, and two high-fashion editorials for ''Gala'' magazine in their post-Cannes Film Festival issues of 2007 and 2008. | |||
=== Specialty model agency divisions === | |||
* '''Pollyanna McIntosh''' most notably appeared in the ] for December 2004, photographed by ]. She also appeared as a UK size 14 in a ] 16-page fashion editorial, and has also worked with renown photographer ] for ] stores, and appeared in his book entitled, ''Bailey's Democracy''. | |||
Cheryl Hughes founded Hughes models, the UK's first plus-size agency in 1985.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/plussize-models-still-rare-on-ny-and-london-catwalks-2080929.html |title='Plus-size' models still rare on NY and London catwalks |agency=Agence France-Presse |work=The Independent |date=16 September 2010 |access-date=23 July 2012}}</ref> Allison Bramwell Bewley, a former straight size and plus-size model founded Excel Models in 1995.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.thefreelibrary.com/CURVE+IS+ALL+AROUND%3B+Big+is+beautiful+as+size-14+Alice+wins+Cosmo...-a0172377556 |title=Curve Is All Around; Big is beautiful as size-14 Alice wins Cosmo modelling competition. |author=Booth, Samantha |date=13 December 2007 |work=Daily Record |location=Scotland |access-date=22 July 2012}}</ref> The agency has represented notable models including ] and Sara Morrison.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://showstudio.com/project/outsize |title=Outsize? |author=Alexander McQueen |author2=John Galliano |author3=Roland Mouret |author4=Sophia Kokosalaki |date=18 February 2002 |website=SHOWstudio |access-date=22 July 2012}}</ref><ref name="Blanchard, Tamisin">{{cite news |url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG6223994/London-Fashion-Week-may-not-be-ready-but-women-love-a-curvy-model.html |title=London Fashion Week may not be ready, but women love a curvy model |author=Blanchard, Tansin |date=24 September 2009 |work=The Daily Telegraph |access-date=17 July 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130308163240/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG6223994/London-Fashion-Week-may-not-be-ready-but-women-love-a-curvy-model.html |archive-date=8 March 2013}}</ref> Sarah Watkinson founded 12 + models in 2000.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.12plusuk.com/about-us/ |title=About Us |work=12plusuk.co.uk |publisher=12 + UK Model Management |access-date=5 August 2012}}</ref> Former plus-size model Anna Shillinglaw founded the plus size division of Milk Management in 2011.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://madisonplus.com/mp-insider/milk-management-promo/ |title=Milk Management Promo |date=9 December 2011 |work=madisonplus.com |publisher=Madison Plus |access-date=12 November 2012}}</ref> These agents have been credited with improving visibility of plus-size models in Europe and developing some of the top plus-size models for international markets. In recent years, the most prestigious fashion agencies in the UK have launched plus size divisions. In 2011, Excel Models merged with ], one of Europe's most prestigious fashion agencies.<ref>{{cite news |url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG8618603/Plus-size-models-to-work-with-Models-1.html |title=Models 1 expands for plus-size models |author=Cowan, Natasha |date=5 July 2011 |work=The Daily Telegraph |access-date=23 July 2012}}</ref> ] started a plus size division, Curve in 2012.<ref>{{Cite web |date=4 July 2023 |title=Plus Size models that are killing the game right now |url=https://www.simplybe.co.uk/blog/10-plus-size-models-that-are-killing-the-game-right-now |access-date=2023-10-30 |website=Simply Be |language=en}}</ref> | |||
===Specialty media and other ventures in Europe=== | |||
* '''Natalie Wakeling''' is one of Australia's most recognizable plus-size models due to well-publicized appearances in Australian ] as the first and continued example of their editorial policy of using models over an Australian size 12, as well as in advertising images for a wide variety of Australian retailers. Wakeling was also the first plus-size model to feature on a cover of Australian ''Cosmopolitan Pregnancy'' magazine in 2006. Wakeling created a plus-size premium denim brand called "Embody Denim", and as part of her commitment to educating young girls on healthy body image, Wakeling serves as an ambassador for the Eating Disorders Foundation of NSW. | |||
Several plus-size retailers in Europe have produced magazines. ] started MR, a fashion magazine showing Marina Rinaldi fashions on plus-size models in 1992.<ref name="Agins, Teri"/> The magazine is still in publication today. ], one of the UK's largest plus-size specialist retailers, launched Encore, an in-store fashion and lifestyle magazine published by ] in 1996.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.campaignlive.co.uk/news/20755/ |title=MEDIA: Encore: An expert's view |author=Michel, Katrina |date=8 November 1996 |work=Campaign |access-date=24 July 2012}}</ref> | |||
Yes!, a print fashion magazine for plus size women founded and edited by Janice Bhend, launched in 1993.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/home-news/were-happy-to-be-the-fat-of-the-land-1505841.html |title=We're happy to be the fat of the land |author=Nowicka, Helen |date=21 November 1993 |work=The Independent |access-date=24 July 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2002/jan/06/ameliahill.johnarlidge |title=Thin end of a big fat juicy scam |author1=Hill, Amelia |author2=Aldridgge, John |date=5 January 2002 |access-date=24 July 2012 |work=The Guardian}}</ref> At the time, Yes! was the only print magazine especially for plus size women in Europe.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.prnewswire.co.uk/news-releases/proud-to-say-yes-156559505.html |title=PROUD TO SAY YES! |author=YES! Magazine |access-date=25 July 2012}}</ref> The magazine stopped publishing in 1998 due to a lack of funding. | |||
==Plus-size Celebrities/Entertainers working as Plus-Size Models== | |||
Celebrities who wear clothing larger than a standard U.S. size 8 have increasingly been attracting endorsement contracts as advertisers seek to extend size-acceptance into the film, TV and music industries, and/or make use of their family or other connections. Please note that women who have lost weight, dropping below a U.S. size 10, since gaining popularity do not form part of this entry, nor do women unrepresented by agents. | |||
Fashion editor Rivkie Baum launched SLiNK, a fashion and lifestyle magazine for full-figured women in 2011.<ref name=Driscoll>{{cite web |url=http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/2012/12/10/slink-plus-size-fashion-magazine_n_2271412.html |title=Plus-Size Fashion Magazine SLiNK Features Models Sizes 8-16 on Cover |author=Driscoll, Brogan |work=HuffPost |date=12 December 2012 |access-date=21 December 2012}}</ref> SLiNK is one of the few magazines focused on plus size women to photograph models with a Vogue-like aesthetic.<ref name=Driscoll/> The magazine began publishing in print for its fifth issue in March 2012.<ref name=gorkana>{{cite web |url=http://gorkana.com/news/consumer/little-black-book/gorkana-meetsrivkie-baum/ |title=Gorkana Meets...Rivkie Baum |date=18 April 2012 |work=gorkana.com |access-date=21 December 2012}}</ref> The magazine was also the first to feature a plus size model in a 3D editorial.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.artslondonnews.com/2012/11/21/design-graduates-create-3-d-magazine-cover/ |title=Design grads create 3D magazine cover |author=Okafor, Chinedu |date=21 November 2012 |work=Arts London News |access-date=21 December 2012}}</ref> SLiNK was also one of the few magazines to feature plus-size and smaller sized models on a magazine cover.<ref name=Driscoll/> | |||
*''']'''~ most notably appeared as the only larger sized model in ]'s 2007 Spring/Summer prèt-â-porter show, and recently appeared as a judge on the US Oxygen Channel's ]'s F.A.T. Chance television program. D'Amour also featured in the title role of ''Avida,'' a 2006 French film selected for the 2006 ] and 2007 ] festivals. | |||
European versions of Vogue and Elle have featured plus size models in many editorials, often photographed by top photographers. In 1997, British Vogue published an editorial with Sara Morrison photographed by ].<ref name="Spencer, Mimi">{{cite news |url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2006/aug/06/healthandwellbeing.features |title=The shape we're in |author=Spencer, Mimi |date=5 August 2006 |work=The Observer |access-date=21 July 2012}}</ref> Vogue Italia featured plus size models on the cover of three issues. Sophie Dahl appeared on two covers in 2000(February and April).<ref name="fashionmodeldirectory.com">{{cite web |url=http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/models/Sophie_Dahl/ |title=Sophie Dahl |work=fashionmodeldirectory.com |access-date=9 April 2012}}</ref><ref name="Sophie Dahl">{{cite web |url=http://nymag.com/fashion/models/sdahl/sophiedahl/ |title=Sophie Dahl |work=New York |access-date=9 April 2012}}</ref> In June 2011, ], ], and ] appeared on the magazine's cover.<ref name=huffpovogueitalia2011cover/> The main editorial of the issue featured those three models plus Marquita Pring.<ref name=huffpovogueitalia2011cover/> Robyn Lawley also appeared in another editorial in that issue. Elle France has featured Tara Lynn on two covers in April 2010 and April 2012, and Robyn Lawley on their April 2011 cover. The April 2010 issue also included a 20-page spread with Lynn. Elle Italia has featured ] on its April 2008 cover. Elle Belgium featured Deborah Dauchot on its May 2012 cover.<ref>{{cite web |title=Deborah Dauchot for Belgian Elle Magazine |url=http://madisonplus.com/style-file/deborah-dauchot-for-belgian-elle-magazine/ |work=madisonplus.com |access-date=2 January 2014 |date=25 April 2012}}</ref> In November 2013, Tara Lynn appeared on the cover of Elle Spain. In December 2013, Iris Monroe Baker appeared on the cover of Elle Netherlands.<ref name="Toeps">{{cite web |last=Toeps |title=Curvy Iris Monroe Baker Op de Cover van Elle Nederland |url=http://www.fashionmilk.com/covers/curvy-iris-monroe-baker-op-de-cover-van-elle-nederland |archive-url=https://archive.today/20140102070933/http://www.fashionmilk.com/covers/curvy-iris-monroe-baker-op-de-cover-van-elle-nederland |archive-date=2 January 2014 |work=fashionmilk.com |publisher=Fashion Milk |access-date=2 January 2014 |date=9 November 2013}}</ref><ref name="Fashnberry">{{cite web |author=Dan |title=Iris Monroe Baker by Jeroen W. Mantel for Elle Netherlands December 2013 |url=http://fashnberry.com/magazines/iris-monroe-baker-by-jeroen-w-mantel-for-elle-netherlands-december-2013/ |website=Fashnberry |access-date=2 January 2014 |date=5 December 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140102193101/http://fashnberry.com/magazines/iris-monroe-baker-by-jeroen-w-mantel-for-elle-netherlands-december-2013/ |archive-date=2 January 2014 }}</ref> | |||
*'''Mia Amber Davis''' ~ appeared in a feature role in the 2000 comedy movie '']'' as 'Rhonda'. Since her film appearance, Davis has been working as a model in New York and appearing on TV to speak on the issues of being plus-sized, and on self-esteem. Amber recently appeared on the ] talk show dealing with the media's response to photographs of Banks in a swimsuit. | |||
Other magazines that have featured plus size models on their covers include ''Amica, Avantgarde, Biba, D Reppublicca della Donna, i-D'', and ''S Moda''. In addition, magazines such as ''Bon, Diva e Donna, Gioia, Glamour UK, Glass, Grazia, Numéro, Paradis, Ponystep'', and ''Yo Dona'' have featured plus size models in editorials. | |||
*''']'''~ was a semi-finalist on ], and is currently represented by the ] agency as a plus-size model. Borgella was the first winner of ]'s ] plus-size model search on the ]. | |||
'']'' has featured several contestants, including Louise Watts, who was Season 3's runner up and competed in America's Next Top Model Cycle 18.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.look.co.uk/pictures/britains-next-top-model-season-6-the-contestants/britains-next-top-model-season-6-simone-clark |title=Britain's Next Top Model Season 6: Simone Clark |work=The Look |access-date=22 July 2012}}</ref> | |||
*''']''' ~ is a model and television personality. She was a contestant on the third cycle of the reality TV series ] (ANTM), and after attempting a career in mainstream plus-size modeling has since found success from interviews and related photography in lifestyle magazine speaking about self-esteem. Jones recently featured solo in a Vogue Italia editorial photographed by Steven Meisel. | |||
In 2016, ] was rebooted as ], and all contestants featured were plus-size models from ], ], and ]. Swede Ronja Manfredsson was declared the winner during the finale episode in ].<ref>{{cite web |last1=de la Bastide |first1=Danielle |title=Meet Ronja Manfredsson: The Swedish Stunner And Top Model Winner with the Killer Curves |url=https://loaded.co.uk/meet-ronja-manfredsson-the-swedish-stunner-and-top-model-winner/ |website=loaded.uk |date=20 January 2017 |access-date=20 February 2019}}</ref> | |||
] | |||
=== Origins in Asia and the Pacific === | |||
*''']''' ~ Oscar<sup>TM</sup>-nominated actress and music artist, Owens currently appears in US advertising for ] cosmetics. Owens is also the figurehead of the Curvation<ref></ref> company's range of plus-size apparel and intimates, and the associated "Project Curvation"<ref></ref>, an awards program championing confidence in women. | |||
The plus size industry in Asia is not as developed as in North America or Europe, but a number of Asian plus size models have been featured in press. Australia has a developed industry with multiple designers and retailers using plus size models in advertising. In recent years, plus size agencies in Australia have launched the careers of several international plus size models, such as ]. | |||
=== Specialty agencies and divisions === | |||
*''']''' ~ appeared in seasons 1-3 of the popular Canadian cable TV series, '']'' as a plus-size model and is a unique example of the model/celebrity concept. Schmidt gained such popularity among the show's youthful audience that she was hired to model for plus-size clothing company ] and is now represented by the Wilhelmina 10/20 division in New York. | |||
Former plus-size model Darrianne Donnelly founded the first plus size agency in Australia, BigGals Models, which was renamed to BGM Models in 1996. BGM Models closed in 2015<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/entertainment/sydney-confidential/plus-size-modelling-pioneer-darrianne-donnelly-retires-after-20-years-in-the-fashion-industry/story-fni0cvc9-1227589497517 |title=Plus-size modelling pioneer Darrianne Donnelly retires after 20 years in the fashion industry |date=31 October 2015 |work=The Daily Telegraph |author=Domjen, Briana}}</ref> due to Donnelly's retirement, with the majority of models moving to the new Curves division<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/entertainment/sydney-confidential/australian-modelling-agency-viviens-launches-plus-size-division-called-curve/story-fni0cvc9-1227195049960 |title=Australian modelling agency Vivien's launches plus-size division called Curve |date=23 January 2015 |author=Halliwell, Elle |work=The Daily Telegraph}}</ref> at the established full service agency Vivien's Models. Chelsea Bonner, a former BGM model, left the agency to start Bella Models in 2000 in direct competition. Bonner is often credited with the discovery of ] as a model, although Lawley had already been modelling at a smaller size<ref>{{cite web |title=Robyn Lawley: The Interview |date=3 June 2011 |work=Pony Ryder |url=http://www.pony-ryder.com/2011/06/robyn-lawley-interview.html}}</ref> before joining Bella. | |||
===Specialty media and other ventures in Asia and Pacific Region=== | |||
*''']''', daughter of ] singer ] and Cyrinda Foxe-Tyler and half-sister of actress ], began modeling at age 20 via an appearance in '']''. She was represented by Wilhelmina and booked by companies seeking to associate themselves with her rock'n roll lifestyle and aesthetic. Tyler appeared in '']'' in its annual "Shape Issue" in 2003 and on the cover of Figure Magazine in May 2006. | |||
In April 1997, ] appeared on a cover of '']'', the first appearance of a plus-size model on an Australian magazine cover.<ref name=sydneyhoringherald1997>{{cite news |last=Tom |first=Emma |title=Weighty matters |url=http://newsstore.smh.com.au/apps/viewDocument.ac?page=1&sy=smh&kw=%22sara+morrison%22&pb=all_ffx&dt=selectRange&dr=entire&so=relevance&sf=text&sf=headline&rc=10&rm=200&sp=nrm&clsPage=1&docID=news970527_0043_7264 |access-date=1 February 2014 |newspaper=] |date=27 May 1997}}</ref><ref name=emmenyt1997>{{cite news |last=Witchel |first=Alex |title=Size 14, 190 Pounds: A Model Figure |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1997/03/12/garden/size-14-190-pounds-a-model-figure.html |access-date=1 February 2014 |newspaper=] |date=12 March 1997}}</ref> In May 2000, Australian Cosmopolitan began using plus-size models in fashion feature spreads.<ref name=sydneymorningheraldauscosmo2000>{{cite news |last=Wood |first=Miranda |title=Real woman forced to slim to play a part |url=http://newsstore.smh.com.au/apps/viewDocument.ac?page=1&sy=smh&kw=%22natalie+wakeling%22&pb=all_ffx&dt=selectRange&dr=entire&so=relevance&sf=text&rc=10&rm=200&sp=adv&clsPage=1&docID=news000531_0592_6541 |access-date=1 February 2014 |newspaper=] |date=28 May 2000 |author2=Baker, Kelly}}</ref> Natalie Wakeling appeared in the first May 2000 editorial.<ref name=sydneymorningheraldauscosmo2000/> Australian Cosmopolitan now features plus size models in every issue of the magazine. Other magazines that regularly feature plus-size models include ] and ].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://madisonplus.com/mp-insider/mp-exclusive-plus-model-robyn-in-australias-madison-mag/ |title=MP Exclusive! Plus Model Robyn in Australia's Madison Mag! |date=11 March 2010 |work=Madison Plus |access-date=21 July 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.plus-model-mag.com/2011/10/robyn-lawley-interview-and-editorial-with-australian-womens-weekly/ |title=Robyn Lawley Interview and Editorial with Australian Women's Weekly |author=Jones, Madeline |date=31 October 2011 |work=plus-model-mag.com |publisher=Plus Model Magazine}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.mamamia.com.au/health-wellbeing/8-quick-questions-with-helen-mccabe/ |title=The Australian mags that are refusing to airbrush |date=4 July 2012 |work=aww.ninemsn.com.au/ |publisher=nine msn |access-date=5 August 2012}}</ref> Robyn Lawley was ]'s Girl of the Week in its November 2013 issue.<ref name=GQAUS>{{cite news |last=Berry |first=Sarah |title=Robyn Lawley is first plus-size model to appear in GQ Australia |url=http://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/robyn-lawley-is-first-plussize-model-to-appear-in-gq-australia-20131016-2vn1y.html |work=The Sydney Morning Herald |access-date=29 October 2013}}</ref> | |||
Madison magazine photographed Robyn Lawley for their May 2012 cover. In March 2014, Robyn Lawley appeared on the cover of Cosmopolitan Australia.<ref name=elleauscosmo>{{cite web |last=Holmes |first=Sally |title=Plus-Size Model Robyn Lawley Covers Cosmopolitan Australia |url=http://www.elle.com/news/fashion-style/plus-size-model-robyn-lawley-cosmopolitan-australia?src=soc_fcbks |work=Elle |publisher=] |access-date=1 February 2014 |date=30 January 2014}}</ref> | |||
==The relationship of plus-size modeling to classical ideals of beauty== | |||
Various magazines and advertising campaigns have depicted plus-size models as embodying a return to the voluptuous ] ideal of feminine beauty, as defined by sculptures such as the ] and the ]--i.e., the aesthetic ideal that generally prevailed throughout ], until well into the twentieth century. Notable among these is Elena Miro's 2003-2005 campaign featuring model Barbara Brickner reprising well-known works of art, and Lara Johnson's May 2002 appearance in US ] alongside a replica of the Venus de Milo . | |||
Crystal Renn appeared in A Call for Camp in Vogue Japan's June 2011 issue.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://models.com/work/vogue-japan-a-call-for-camp/46318 |title=A Call for Camp |work=models.com |access-date=22 July 2012}}</ref> Felicity Hayward was featured in the editorial I'm Better in Black in Vogue Japan September 2012.<ref>{{cite web |title=Vogue Japan I'm Better in Black |url=http://models.com/work/vogue-japan-im-better-in-black |work=models.com |access-date=30 October 2013}}</ref> Australian Vogue featured Robyn Lawley in Belle Curve for their August 2011 issue, and again in their June 2013 issue.<ref>{{cite news |last=Triall-Nash |first=Glynis |title=Vogue eager to make an issue of 'real' women |url=http://www.theaustralian.com.au/executive-living/fashion/vogue-eager-to-make-an-issue-of-real-women/story-e6frg8k6-1226644826840 |work=The Australian |access-date=30 October 2013 |date=17 May 2013}}</ref> | |||
] featured cycle winner ] in Cycle 5. | |||
] produced a ] runway show in China featuring Asian models in 2006. | |||
==Criticism== | |||
The plus-size modelling industry has received general criticism on the premise that acceptance of plus-size models sets a poor health example of weight management.<ref>{{cite magazine |url=http://www.newsweek.com/2009/08/25/america-s-war-on-the-overweight.html |title=America's War on the Overweight |magazine=Newsweek |date=26 August 2009 |access-date=16 October 2010}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.news.com.au/opinion/plus-size-models-doing-big-girls-no-favours/story-e6frfs99-1225770448113 |title=Plus-Size Models Doing Big Girls No Favours |work=News.com.au |date=8 September 2009 |access-date=16 October 2010}}</ref> | |||
Consumer-based criticism regarding the lower sizes of plus-size models was for a long time commonplace and wide-spread. While the reputed 'average' dress size of an American woman is size 14, the majority of models represented as plus-size were between a US size 6-12; therefore, the models did not reflect the average consumer size.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=123604722 |title=Fashion Week's Latest Trend? Plus-Size Models |publisher=NPR News |date=15 February 2010 |access-date=16 October 2010}}</ref> However, over the past ten years, larger plus-size models have appeared, particularly on social media, and Tess Holliday (US size 22, UK size 26) was featured on the September 2018 cover of Cosmopolitan. | |||
Like other models, plus-size models use food tricks to temporarily alter their size long enough to meet client demands, such as eating salty food to go up in size or eating cotton balls dipped in juice to shrink for a shoot.<ref name="Sauers, Jenna">{{cite web |url=http://jezebel.com/5824896/plus+size-models-wear-body-padding-to-please-certain-clients-and-other-modeling-non+secrets |title=Plus-Size Models Wear Body Padding To Please Certain Clients, And Other Modeling Non-Secrets |author=Sauers, Jenna |date=26 July 2001 |work=Jezebel |access-date=23 July 2012}}</ref> Agents have suggested plastic surgery to some models.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.foxnews.com/story/pressure-to-get-skinny-still-the-fashion-norm-even-in-the-plus-sized-model-world |title=Pressure to Get Skinny Still the Fashion Norm, Even in the Plus-Sized Model World |date=14 September 2009 |publisher=Fox News Channel |access-date=28 July 2012 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130622084450/http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,549920,00.html |archive-date=22 June 2013 }}</ref> | |||
German fashion designer ] and other fashion designers have deferred on the use of plus-size models through a lack of interest in the consumers associated with the term plus-size. Lagerfeld in particular has been vocal on the matter of his preferred clientele: "What I designed was fashion for slender and slim people" and received criticism for demanding that mass retailer ] not produce their collaboration designs to size 16.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/news/designer-says-plussize-models-are-a-joke-2001677.html |title=Designer Says Plus-Size Models Are 'a Joke' |work=The Independent |date=16 June 2010 |access-date=16 October 2010 |location=London |first=Harriet |last=Walker}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/no-one-wants-to-see-curvy-women-german-designer-1801469.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091015003542/http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/no-one-wants-to-see-curvy-women-german-designer-1801469.html |archive-date=15 October 2009 |title='No One Wants to See Curvy Women': German designer Karl Lagerfeld |work=The Independent |date=12 October 2009 |access-date=16 October 2010 |location=London}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2004/11/18/lagerfelds-high-street-split |title=Lagerfeld's High Street Split |work=Vogue UK |date=18 November 2004 |author=unattributed}}</ref> | |||
In the past, the industry was criticized for lacking racial diversity.<ref name="Richardson, Lisa">{{cite news |url=https://www.chicagotribune.com/2001/08/21/plus-size-model-defies-a-stereotype-for-herself-and-for-other-asian-women/ |title=Plus-size model defies a stereotype -- for herself and for other Asian women |author=Richardson, Lisa |date=21 August 2001 |work=Chicago Tribune |access-date=22 July 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.racialicious.com/2010/04/23/where-my-sistas-at-the-underrepresentation-of-black-plus-size-models-in-mainstream-fashion/ |title=Where My Sistas At? The Underrepresentation of Black Plus Size Models in Mainstream Fashion |date=23 April 2010 |work=Racialicious |access-date=22 July 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121023023747/http://www.racialicious.com/2010/04/23/where-my-sistas-at-the-underrepresentation-of-black-plus-size-models-in-mainstream-fashion/ |archive-date=23 October 2012}}</ref> For example, critics have noted that there are few Asian plus-size models.<ref name="Richardson, Lisa"/> Others have noted that there are few black plus-size models with darker skin tones.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.plus-model-mag.com/2012/06/ford-models-agency-showing-some-curves/ |title=Ford Models Agency Showing Some Curves |date=28 June 2012 |work=Plus Model Magazine |access-date=22 July 2012}}</ref> | |||
In February 2015, Australian model ] and television presenter ] began a campaign to end the use of the term "plus-size" to describe models who are above a ] by the modelling industry. Ferrario posted a picture with the caption "I am a model FULL STOP" with the ] "#droptheplus" which gained coverage in the media and was heavily discussed, with mixed, but mostly positive reactions, on social media and within the fashion industry.<ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.foxnews.com/entertainment/2015/03/23/should-modeling-industry-get-rid-term-plus-size/ |title=Fox News article on Stefania Ferrario and #droptheplus campaign |date=23 March 2015 |access-date=29 March 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160221191143/http://www.foxnews.com/entertainment/2015/03/23/should-modeling-industry-get-rid-term-plus-size/ |archive-date=21 February 2016 }}</ref><ref>{{cite magazine |url=http://www.bustle.com/articles/72225-droptheplus-campaign-by-stefania-ferrario-and-ajay-rochester-ignites-social-media-but-is-it-invalidating |title=Bustle article on #droptheplus |magazine=Bustle |access-date=29 March 2015}}</ref> | |||
==See also== | |||
*] | |||
==References== | ==References== | ||
{{Reflist}} | |||
==External links== | |||
{{reflist}} | |||
* {{Commons category-inline|Plus-size models}} | |||
{{DEFAULTSORT:model, Plus-size}} | |||
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Latest revision as of 17:06, 27 October 2024
Type of model
A plus-size model is an individual size 12 and above who is engaged primarily in modeling plus-size clothing. Plus-size clothing worn by plus-size models is typically catering for and marketed to either big, tall or overweight men and women. Plus-size models also engage in work that is not strictly related to selling clothing, e.g., stock photography and advertising photography for cosmetics, household and pharmaceutical products and sunglasses, footwear and watches. Therefore, plus-size models do not exclusively wear garments marketed as plus-size clothing. This is especially true when participating in fashion editorials for mainstream fashion magazines.
Synonymous and interchangeable with plus-size model is "full-figured model", "extended-sizes model", "over-weight model", "fat model" and "outsize model". Previously, the term "large size model" was also frequently used.
Plus-size industry
Fashion designers are starting to look more closely at the earning potential from plus-size clothing, and have used plus-size models for their advertising campaigns and catwalks. Jean-Paul Gaultier and John Galliano both used plus-size models in their Spring 2006 showings in Paris. Gaultier also used plus-size models Marquita Pring and Crystal Renn in his Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear show. Italian plus-size fashion house Elena Mirò now regularly stages biannual prêt-à-porter shows during Milan Fashion Week. Mark Fast and William Tempest each used plus-size models during their own London Fashion Week showings for Spring 2009, and again as part of All Walks Beyond the Catwalk event held on 19 September 2009 in association with the British Fashion Council. Mark Fast also used plus-size models in Fall 2010, Fall 2011, and Spring 2012. Mr. Debonair of Beautiful You Fashion Tour uses plus-size models in shows around the world, including during the Beautiful You fashion show during New York Fashion Week 2022 which included Ms. Plus Intercontinental 2021 title holder Wendy Roach. Plus-size models became increasingly represented in high fashion after 2020 but saw a decline in early 2023 when ultrathin models made a comeback.
Origins in North America
Lane Bryant began trading in the early 1900s as a producer of clothing for "Expectant Mothers and Newborn"'. By the early 1920s, Lane Bryant started selling clothing under the category 'For the Stout Women', which ranged between a 38–56 inch bustline. The earliest catalogs used illustrations to sell their products, but by the mid-1950s photographs were integrated into the catalogs as the evolution of printing technology made this option available. After a hiatus through the 1960–1980 period, Lane Bryant again began using plus-size models.
Specialty model agency divisions
Plus size models were first represented by model agencies in the 1970s. Prior to this, models freelanced directly with retailers, designers and magazines. Former plus-size model Mary Duffy owned Big Beauties Little Women, the first agency specializing in plus-size and petite models in 1977. Pat Swift, a plus-size model at the time, founded Plus Models in 1978. Ford Models began representing plus size models in 1978, and added two models to their board, including top model Ann Harper, due to demand from clients. By the late 1980s, Plus Models was the largest and most successful plus-size specialty agency, representing over 65 models and grossing over 2 million dollars in revenue. By 1984, Big Beauties Little Women was successful enough to run national model searches advertised in the press. 18-year old Angelia Taylor was the first winner of the inaugural Big Beauty Model Search in 1984. The prize included the cover of It's Me magazine, a nationally published magazine for plus-size women. Not long after, Plus Models began holding national model searches. By the mid-1980s, top plus size models could earn as much as 150,000 to 200,000 dollars a year. Ford Models bought Big Beauties Little Women in 1988, later renaming the division Special Sizes and then Ford 12+.
Wilhelmina NYC agent Susan Georget started the Wilhelmina 10/20 division in New York in 1994, recently re-branded W Curve. Gary Dakin headed New York's Karin Models' Curves division, only to leave after a short time to develop Ford Models' Ford 12+(rebranded Ford+) model division in their New York office in 1998. In Constantine Valhouli's 2001 plus-size model documentary Curve, Dakin states, "We're celebrating our 25th anniversary of the Ford 12+ division. It was the first and longest-existing plus division in the industry."(sic) Together, these agents created agency divisions that have continued to recruit the highest caliber of models in the industry and are credited with expanding opportunities for plus-size models beyond working solely for plus-size clothing retailers.
Former plus-size model Becca Thorpe founded the plus-size division at Muse Model Management, a boutique fashion agency in 2011. Muse also recruits high caliber models and had advanced opportunities for plus-size models beyond advertising for plus-size retailers.
Ford Models closed its plus-size division in June 2013 to focus on its editorial divisions. Gary Dakin and Jaclyn Sarka founded Jag Models in July 2013, which currently represents about 30 models sizes 8-18. The agency does not brand its models as plus-size.
There are a large number of reputable agencies throughout the U.S. and Canada, and internationally in Australia, Belgium, Brazil, Czech Republic, Denmark, France, Germany, Ireland, Italy, South Africa, Spain, Switzerland, The Netherlands, Turkey and the UK.
Specialty media and other ventures in North America
In 1979 Big Beautiful Woman magazine (more commonly known via the acronym BBW) began publication and was one of the first publications in the US catering specifically to plus-size clothing consumers. It ceased publication in 1995, but the "BBW" brand was sold onwards. Although it continued in print via several editor-and-publisher combinations it continued to falter, finally ceasing print publication after 23 years with the April/May 2003 issue. BBW is now an online community surrounding archived material from the magazine.
In Spring 1981, Lane Bryant began publishing It's Me magazine. Along with Big Beautiful Woman, It's Me was one of the few print magazines for plus-size women. In 1982, the magazine was sold to Happy Hands Publishing Company.
In addition to magazines, books dedicated to plus size (aka "full figured") fashion and lifestyles began to be released from major publishers in the 1980s. Some of these include: Making It Big (1980), The Big Beauty Book (1982), The Lane Bryant Fashion Math Make-Over (1987) and Sizing Up (1989).
Spiegel catalog launched their For You from Spiegel plus-size collection in 1989 with Linda Arroz as their official consultant and spokesmodel. The three-year For You campaign included opening brick-and-mortar retail locations in upscale shopping centers. Previously, Spiegel had only been a mail-order merchant. As part of the full-scale plus-size outreach, Spiegel produced fashion videos that featured advice from image consultant Arroz, with commentary from some of the plus-size models who appeared in the video and catalog. Arroz became the fashion editor of BBW magazine after her stint with Spiegel. By the mid-1990s, all For You from Spiegel retail locations had closed.
In 1995, Lane Bryant began a transformation of the brand which included large-scale fashion showings and celebrity endorsement. Queen Latifah, Mia Tyler, Camryn Manheim, Anna Nicole Smith and Chris Noth have appeared in advertising and/or events on behalf of the brand. Lane Bryant held a large-scale lingerie fashion show to launch the "Cacique Intimates" lingerie collection on 1 February 2000. The 2003 final large-scale catwalk show featured Roseanne Barr as Matron of Ceremonies in a cabaret setting complete with Moulin Rouge-style singers and dancers.
Lane Bryant was acquired by Charming Shoppes for $335 million in August 2001. In 2003 a cost-reduction plan was announced to improve the company's pre-tax position by $45 million. Shortly afterwards, the annual Lane Bryant fashion show ceased production.
With strong cooperation from Wilhelmina 10/20, Curves and Ford 12+ agencies, MODE magazine, was launched in the spring of 1997. No other fashion magazine specifically targeted the plus-size consumer with a Vogue-like fashion philosophy. MODE's editorial practice of providing models' names, sometimes attached to quotes on self-esteem to make them more approachable, greatly aided the popularity of the models and gave them a form of celebrity. The magazine also received industry acclaim, being named the best new magazine launch by Ad Week and Advertising Age in 1997. MODE ran model search competitions in conjunction with the Wilhelmina modeling agency, drawing entries from thousands of hopefuls from the US and Canada.
Occurring shortly before the time of MODE's closure was the failure of several designers' ventures into the plus-size market. Versace (GV Versatile Couture), Valentino (Carisma), and others ceased producing the clothing which MODE relied upon, leaving an unfortunate deficit in the fashion department wardrobes and advertising revenue coffers of MODE magazine and its successors. Its circulation was approximately 600,000 at the time of its demise in late 2001.
Grace Magazine was launched on 14 May 2002 by MODE magazine's last executive editor, Ceslie Armstrong, and many of the ex-MODE staff as an independent quarterly publication and website under a similar concept. Even though the initial 400,000 print run sold out quickly and advertising revenue appeared high, the independent status and limited funding prohibited the ability to grow to fill the newsstand and subscription orders. Critics, however, believed that Grace featured far less stylish fashion content than its predecessor and unwisely pursued an editorial emphasis on weight-related health issues. Grace Magazine ceased operation due to lack of funding in November 2003, after publishing 10 issues.
Charming Shoppes' custom advertorial magazine, Figure, was launched in 2002 and was revamped during 2006. Although it featured only Charming Shoppes' own products and related lifestyle articles, it remained the only fashion and lifestyle print magazine specifically targeted for plus-size consumers until its announced closure after the publication of the March/April 2009 issue.
U.S. television program America's Next Top Model has featured contestants acknowledging the plus-size industry's relevance to fashion since the show's launch in 2003. After elimination from the competition several of the contestants have signed contracts with the Wilhelmina agency, although only Kortnie Coles, Diane Hernandez, Toccara Jones, Whitney Thompson, Yvonne Powless, Khrystyana Kazakova, Liz Woodbury, and Alexandra Underwood have successfully translated their TV celebrity into ongoing modeling careers.
Several homegrown calendar projects featuring models over a U.S. size 12 were launched in 2007, including the well-publicized Luscious and Fenomenal Calendar products from North America. To date, no calendar has been successful enough to continue beyond its initial launch year.
Plus Model Magazine, an online publication was launched in 2006 by Madeline Figueroa-Jones, a former plus-size model. The magazine features beauty and fashion editorials, beauty and fashion tips, modeling advice and interviews with plus-size celebrities as well as people working in all facets of the plus-size clothing industry. Plus Model Magazine launched an online podcast in 2008 hosted by model, actress and host Chenese Lewis, which has interviews with plus-size celebrities and people working in all facets of the plus-size clothing industry. The magazine gained attention in many media outlets worldwide by publishing an editorial commenting on body image and the fashion industry. The editorial featured plus-size model Katya Zharkova photographed nude alongside a straight-size model.
Canadian magazine LOU LOU has included specifically produced bi-annual plus-size fashion inserts featuring editorials and product pages since 2008. Echoing the advertorial relationship of Figure to Lane Bryant, LouLou's supplement features products from Reitmans group of plus-size apparel companies (Addition-Elle, MXM, Pennington's) on its pages.
Vogue U.S. has faltered on the continued use of recognisable plus-size models for the annual "Shape Issue" (April) issue; however British vocalist Adele appeared on the March 2012 cover as the first overtly larger-sized cover subject since sportsman LeBron James in April 2008. U.S. Glamour has declared it will feature more plus-size models as editorial policy after the appearance of a small photograph of model Lizzie Miller caused a groundswell of positive comment.
Elle Quebec featured plus-size models three times on its cover: in May 1997, May 2013 and June 2014.
High fashion print publication V magazine featured seven agency-represented plus-size models in "The Size Issue" #63, photographed by prominent fashion photographers.
North American body care company, Dove, launched a "Real Beauty Campaign" where they included un-retouched photos of plus-size models, and models of all sizes, to emphasize the acceptance of all body shapes.
Origins in Europe
European magazines, including European editions of Elle and Vogue have featured plus size models on covers and in editorials.
In France, the media ma grande taille is dedicated to plus size industry and body positivity.
Evans, a U.K.-based retailer, was founded in 1930. Evans specializes in plus-sized clothing, lingerie, shoes and swimwear.
Max Mara started Marina Rinaldi, one of the first high-end clothing lines, for plus-size women in 1980. Marina Rinaldi started advertising in 1981. The line's campaigns were photographed by top photographers such as Richard Avedon, Patrick Demarchelier, Arthur Elgort, Greg Kadel, Peter Lindbergh, and Craig McDean, used top models and celebrities(including Carré Otis, Candice Huffine, Crystal Renn, and Kate Dillon Levin), and were featured in magazines and on billboards. The ads were also the first to use the term plus size rather than outsize in Europe.
Specialty model agency divisions
Cheryl Hughes founded Hughes models, the UK's first plus-size agency in 1985. Allison Bramwell Bewley, a former straight size and plus-size model founded Excel Models in 1995. The agency has represented notable models including Pollyanna McIntosh and Sara Morrison. Sarah Watkinson founded 12 + models in 2000. Former plus-size model Anna Shillinglaw founded the plus size division of Milk Management in 2011. These agents have been credited with improving visibility of plus-size models in Europe and developing some of the top plus-size models for international markets. In recent years, the most prestigious fashion agencies in the UK have launched plus size divisions. In 2011, Excel Models merged with Models 1, one of Europe's most prestigious fashion agencies. Storm Models started a plus size division, Curve in 2012.
Specialty media and other ventures in Europe
Several plus-size retailers in Europe have produced magazines. Marina Rinaldi started MR, a fashion magazine showing Marina Rinaldi fashions on plus-size models in 1992. The magazine is still in publication today. Evans, one of the UK's largest plus-size specialist retailers, launched Encore, an in-store fashion and lifestyle magazine published by Condé Nast in 1996.
Yes!, a print fashion magazine for plus size women founded and edited by Janice Bhend, launched in 1993. At the time, Yes! was the only print magazine especially for plus size women in Europe. The magazine stopped publishing in 1998 due to a lack of funding.
Fashion editor Rivkie Baum launched SLiNK, a fashion and lifestyle magazine for full-figured women in 2011. SLiNK is one of the few magazines focused on plus size women to photograph models with a Vogue-like aesthetic. The magazine began publishing in print for its fifth issue in March 2012. The magazine was also the first to feature a plus size model in a 3D editorial. SLiNK was also one of the few magazines to feature plus-size and smaller sized models on a magazine cover.
European versions of Vogue and Elle have featured plus size models in many editorials, often photographed by top photographers. In 1997, British Vogue published an editorial with Sara Morrison photographed by Nick Knight. Vogue Italia featured plus size models on the cover of three issues. Sophie Dahl appeared on two covers in 2000(February and April). In June 2011, Candice Huffine, Robyn Lawley, and Tara Lynn appeared on the magazine's cover. The main editorial of the issue featured those three models plus Marquita Pring. Robyn Lawley also appeared in another editorial in that issue. Elle France has featured Tara Lynn on two covers in April 2010 and April 2012, and Robyn Lawley on their April 2011 cover. The April 2010 issue also included a 20-page spread with Lynn. Elle Italia has featured Crystal Renn on its April 2008 cover. Elle Belgium featured Deborah Dauchot on its May 2012 cover. In November 2013, Tara Lynn appeared on the cover of Elle Spain. In December 2013, Iris Monroe Baker appeared on the cover of Elle Netherlands.
Other magazines that have featured plus size models on their covers include Amica, Avantgarde, Biba, D Reppublicca della Donna, i-D, and S Moda. In addition, magazines such as Bon, Diva e Donna, Gioia, Glamour UK, Glass, Grazia, Numéro, Paradis, Ponystep, and Yo Dona have featured plus size models in editorials.
Britain & Ireland's Next Top Model has featured several contestants, including Louise Watts, who was Season 3's runner up and competed in America's Next Top Model Cycle 18.
In 2016, Scandinavia's Next Top Model was rebooted as Top Model Curves, and all contestants featured were plus-size models from Denmark, Norway, and Sweden. Swede Ronja Manfredsson was declared the winner during the finale episode in Lisbon.
Origins in Asia and the Pacific
The plus size industry in Asia is not as developed as in North America or Europe, but a number of Asian plus size models have been featured in press. Australia has a developed industry with multiple designers and retailers using plus size models in advertising. In recent years, plus size agencies in Australia have launched the careers of several international plus size models, such as Robyn Lawley.
Specialty agencies and divisions
Former plus-size model Darrianne Donnelly founded the first plus size agency in Australia, BigGals Models, which was renamed to BGM Models in 1996. BGM Models closed in 2015 due to Donnelly's retirement, with the majority of models moving to the new Curves division at the established full service agency Vivien's Models. Chelsea Bonner, a former BGM model, left the agency to start Bella Models in 2000 in direct competition. Bonner is often credited with the discovery of Robyn Lawley as a model, although Lawley had already been modelling at a smaller size before joining Bella.
Specialty media and other ventures in Asia and Pacific Region
In April 1997, Emme appeared on a cover of New Woman, the first appearance of a plus-size model on an Australian magazine cover. In May 2000, Australian Cosmopolitan began using plus-size models in fashion feature spreads. Natalie Wakeling appeared in the first May 2000 editorial. Australian Cosmopolitan now features plus size models in every issue of the magazine. Other magazines that regularly feature plus-size models include Australian Women's Weekly and Dolly. Robyn Lawley was GQ Australia's Girl of the Week in its November 2013 issue.
Madison magazine photographed Robyn Lawley for their May 2012 cover. In March 2014, Robyn Lawley appeared on the cover of Cosmopolitan Australia.
Crystal Renn appeared in A Call for Camp in Vogue Japan's June 2011 issue. Felicity Hayward was featured in the editorial I'm Better in Black in Vogue Japan September 2012. Australian Vogue featured Robyn Lawley in Belle Curve for their August 2011 issue, and again in their June 2013 issue.
Australia's Next Top Model featured cycle winner Tahnee Atkinson in Cycle 5.
Elena Miro produced a prêt-à-porter runway show in China featuring Asian models in 2006.
Criticism
The plus-size modelling industry has received general criticism on the premise that acceptance of plus-size models sets a poor health example of weight management.
Consumer-based criticism regarding the lower sizes of plus-size models was for a long time commonplace and wide-spread. While the reputed 'average' dress size of an American woman is size 14, the majority of models represented as plus-size were between a US size 6-12; therefore, the models did not reflect the average consumer size. However, over the past ten years, larger plus-size models have appeared, particularly on social media, and Tess Holliday (US size 22, UK size 26) was featured on the September 2018 cover of Cosmopolitan.
Like other models, plus-size models use food tricks to temporarily alter their size long enough to meet client demands, such as eating salty food to go up in size or eating cotton balls dipped in juice to shrink for a shoot. Agents have suggested plastic surgery to some models.
German fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld and other fashion designers have deferred on the use of plus-size models through a lack of interest in the consumers associated with the term plus-size. Lagerfeld in particular has been vocal on the matter of his preferred clientele: "What I designed was fashion for slender and slim people" and received criticism for demanding that mass retailer H&M not produce their collaboration designs to size 16.
In the past, the industry was criticized for lacking racial diversity. For example, critics have noted that there are few Asian plus-size models. Others have noted that there are few black plus-size models with darker skin tones.
In February 2015, Australian model Stefania Ferrario and television presenter Ajay Rochester began a campaign to end the use of the term "plus-size" to describe models who are above a US dress size 4 by the modelling industry. Ferrario posted a picture with the caption "I am a model FULL STOP" with the hashtag "#droptheplus" which gained coverage in the media and was heavily discussed, with mixed, but mostly positive reactions, on social media and within the fashion industry.
See also
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- "Bustle article on #droptheplus". Bustle. Retrieved 29 March 2015.
External links
- Media related to Plus-size models at Wikimedia Commons