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Spanning 2.4 million acres (9,700 km²) in the U.S. state of Wyoming, Shoshone National Forest is the first federally protected forest in the United States, first protected by Congress as the Yellowstone Timberland Reserve in 1891. A total of four wilderness areas are located within the forest ensuring that more than half the forest will never be developed or altered by human activities. From sagebrush plains through dense spruce and fir forest to craggy mountain peaks, the Shoshone National Forest has a rich biodiversity rarely matched in any protected area.

Three major mountain ranges are located in the forest including the Absaroka, the Beartooth and the Wind River Range. Yellowstone National Park forms part of the forest boundary to the west, while south of Yellowstone, the Continental Divide separates the the forest from its neighbor; the Bridger-Teton National Forest which lies west of the divide. To the east the forest boundary includes privately owned property, lands managed by the U.S. Bureau of Land Management and the Wind River Indian Reservation which belongs to the Shoshoni Indians. Custer National Forest along the Montana border is the boundary to the north.

All of the forest is a part of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, an unbroken expanse of federally protected lands encompassing an estimated 20 million acres (80,937 km²). The forest is now managed by the U.S. Forest Service under authority of the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Forest uses

As is true with all National Forests in the U.S., in Shoshone National Forest the emphasis is on conservation rather than preservation as is commonly practiced by the National Park Service. The Forest Service mandate is to ensure a sustainable flow of some raw materials from the forest such as lumber for construction purposes and wood pulp for paper products. Mineral extraction and oil and gas exploration and recovery are also conducted, though are much more uncommon and with increasing rarity. On suitable lands, lease options are offered to ranchers to allow them to graze livestock such as cattle and sheep. The forest provides guidelines and enforces environmental regulations to ensure that resources are not overexploited and to ensure necessary commodities are available for future populations. An increasing effort by conservationist groups combined with public demand led to the creation of wilderness designated zones within most National Forests which provides a much higher level of protection and prohibits any alterations to the resource. In Shosone National Forest, less than ten percent of the total acreage is utilized for land lease, logging or mineral extraction. The rest of the forest is either designated wilderness, reserved for habitat protection for plants and animals, or set aside for visitor recreation. The forest is separated into seven districts and the main headquarters is located in Cody, Wyoming.

Human history

Shoshone National Forest is named after the Shoshone Indians, who, along with other Native American groups such as the Lakota, Crow and Northern Cheyenne, were the original human inhabitants of the region. Archeological evidence suggests that their presence in the region is believed to extend back at least 8,000 years. The forest provided an abundance of game meat, wood products, and shelter during the winter months from the more exposed high plains to the east. Portions of the more mountainous regions were frequented by the Shoshone and Sioux (Lakota) for spiritual healing and vision quests. The Wind River Indian Reservation (population 8,000) is located along the southeastern border of the forest and belongs to the Shoshone and Arapaho Indians. 2.2 million acres (8,903 km²) was negotiated by Chief Washakie with the U.S. Government in 1878 to be preserved as tribal lands. The U.S. Cavalry had earlier constructed Fort Brown on the reservation lands which was subsequently renamed Fort Washakie. During the late 1800's, the fort was staffed by African-American members of the U.S Cavalry better known as the Buffalo Soldiers. Both Chief Washakie and Sacajawea, the Shoshone Indian who provided invaluable assistance to Meriwether Lewis and William Clark during the Lewis and Clark expedition, are buried at the fort.

In the early 1800s, the forest was visited by mountain men and explorers such as John Colter and Jim Bridger. Colter is the first white man known to have visited both the Yellowstone region and the forest in the period between 1806 and 1808. Having been an original member of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, Colter requested permission from Meriwether Lewis to leave the expedition after it had finished crossing the Rocky Mountains during their return journey from the Pacific Ocean. Colter teamed up with two unaffiliated explorers the expedition had encountered but soon thereafter decided to explore regions south of where his new partners wished to venture. Traveling first into the northeastern region of what is today Yellowstone National Park, Colter then explored the Absaroka Mountains, crossing over Togwotee Pass and entering the valley known today as Jackson Hole. Colter survived both a grizzly bear attack and pursuit by a band of Blackfeet Indians that had taken his horse and striped him naked. Colter later provided William Clark with previously unknown information of the regions he had explored which were published by Clark in 1814.

Travels by fur trappers and adventurers such as Manuel Lisa and Jim Bridger from 1807 to 1840, completed the exploration of the region. With the decline of the fur trade in the late 1840's and much of the prized beaver long since made scarce by overtrapping, much of the forest was rarely visited again until the federally sponsored explorations under direction of F.V. Hayden in 1871. Hayden was primarily interested in documenting the Yellowstone country west of the forest, but his expedition established that the forest was a prime resource that also needed protection. Travels in the forest in the 1880s by later U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt, who was also a strong advocate of land conservation, provided the impetus that subsequently established the Yellowstone Timberland Reserve in 1891 creating the first national forest in the U.S. In 1902, President Roosevelt first greatly expanded the reserve and then divided the reserve into four separate units, with the Shoshone being the largest. Upon the creation of the U.S. Forest Service in 1905, the reserve was redesignated as a national forest, but the current wording and title that exists today was designated forty years later in 1945. Built in 1903, the Wapiti Ranger Station is located west of Cody, Wyoming and is the oldest ranger station in any U.S. National Forest and is also listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

During the era of the Great Depression in the 1930s, numerous camps were established by the Civilian Conservation Corps that housed groups of unemployed men paid by the federal government to build roads and hiking trails as well as campgrounds for future travellers to the Yellowstone region.

Biology

Shoshone National Forest has documented 1,300 distinct species of trees and plants and new discoveries are found every year. While the lower elevations often have sagebrush and grasses, the forested sections are dominated by various species of trees, including Subalpine Fir, Engelmann Spruce, Whitebark Pine, Limber Pine, Lodgepole Pine, Rocky Mountains Juniper and Quaking Aspen.

Grizzly Bear, American Black Bear, Gray Wolf, Moose, Wapiti, Bighorn Sheep, Mountain goat, Wolverine, Puma, and Pronghorn are just a few of the 100 species of mammals found in the forest. Bald and Golden Eagles as well as Black-billed Magpie, Trumpeter Swan, Great Blue Heron and Peregrine Falcon are also found. The lakes and streams are home to 8 species and subspecies of trout, some not found anywhere else.

Fire ecology

Shoshone National Forest has an active Fire Management program which recognizes that forest fires are a natural part of the ecosystem. The Yellowstone National Park fires of 1988 also impacted regions within the forest, though not as severely as it had in the adjacent park. Working cooperatively with the National Interagency Fire Center, (which is a multiagency effort of federal, state and local resources), the forest has developed a system of fire restrictions, fuels management, and a controlled burn plan designed to help reduce the chances of a huge catastrophic fire.

Fire was long thought of as bad and this is still true when discussing structure fires. Smokey Bear was the U.S. Forest Service mascot that for decades reminded the public with the adage that "only you can prevent wildfires" as a method to help ensure that visitors to forests would be careful with fire. While a need to continue to ensure that people do use fire safely, an active re-education program helps to promote the knowledge that not all fire is harmful when properly managed. As was true in all national forests, Shoshone National Forest long had a policy of suppressing forest fires immediately upon their discovery. So successful were the original efforts to prevent forest fires that over time huge sources of fuel in the form of dead and dying trees littered the forest floor. Prior to, but especially after the catastrophic fires in the Yellowstone region in 1988, the effort to identify areas of similar fire potential were identified. Today, the forest, in conjunction with the National Interagency Fire Center, works to allow some natural fires to burn unsuppressed and to actively engage in controlled burns to help reduce the risk of larger and harder to manage fire incidents.

Though much of the forest is remote and the surrounding region sparsely populated, some concern over the proximity of peoples homes and businesses, primarily along major roads through the forest, has dictated a need for a cooperative effort between the forest and local land owners to minimize the potential for human injury and fatalities. Better known as the Wildland-Urban Interface, it is the region where the forest and human development meet.

Climate

While the state of Wyoming is generally considered a arid state with an average of less than 10 inches (25 cm) of precipitation annually, Shoshone National Forest is located in the some of the largest mountain ranges in the state, which ensures that glaciers and snowmelt provide water for streams through the dry summer months. The average temperature at the lower elevations in the forest are 72°F (22.2°C) during the summer and 20°F (-6.7°C) during the winter, and the higher peaks average 20°F (-6.7°C) below those figures. The hottest temperature ever recorded is 105°F (40.6°C) while a reading of -52°F (-47°C) was recorded in 1993. Most of the precipitation falls in the winter and early spring while summer is punctuated with widely scattered afternoon and evening thunderstorms. The fall is usually cool and dry. Due to the altitude and dryness of the atmosphere, vigorous radiative cooling occurs throughout the year and temperature variances of 50°F (10°C) daily are normal. Consequently, the nights range from very cool in the summer to polar in the winter and visitors should always remember to bring along at least a jacket, even during the summer.

Geography

Of the three major mountain ranges found in the forest, they are geologically distinct from each other. The Absaroka Mountains were named after the Crow Indians' name for themselves, although they only inhabited the far northernmost part to the mountain range. The Absarokas are primarily volcanic in origin, composed of igneous rocks. The majority of the Absaroka Mountains are contained within the forest with the highest peak in the mountain range being Francs Peak at 13,153 feet (4009m). Stretching north to south through the northern and eastern sections of the forest, they span over 100 miles (160 km) from the Montana border to south of Dubois, Wyoming. Important passes through the Absarokas include Sylvan Pass which leads to the eastern entrance of Yellowstone National Park, and Togwotee Pass which provides access to Jackson Hole and Grand Teton National Park. The peaks of the Absaroka are basaltic in origin, having been the result of volcanic activity estimated to have occurred 50 million years ago during the Eocene epoch. The rocks themselves are relatively dark and consist of rhyolite, andesite and breccias. Due to the erosional influences of glaciers and water and the relative softness of the rocks, the Absarokas are quite craggy in appearance. Gold was mined from the slopes of Francs Peak until the early 1920s and the small ghost town of Kirwen can still be seen today. Few lakes exist in the Absarokas but the headwaters of both the Bighorn and Yellowstone Rivers are found there.

The Beartooth Mountains in the northernmost section of the forest are granitic and metamorphic in origin. Some rocks in that area have been dated up to 3.96 billion years old, which makes these exposed Precambrian rocks some of the oldest on Earth. Although oftentimes considered a part of the Absarokas, they are distinct in appearance and geologic history. Uplifted approximately 70 million years ago during the Laramide orogeny, the Beartooths consist of vast windswept plateaus and rugged peaks with sometimes sheer cliff faces. The granite, gneiss and schist rocks are rich in minerals such as chromium and platinum. Iron and magnesium are found in the biotite, amphiboles and pyroxene minerals throughout the range. Quartz and feldspars are also commonly found. Geologists believe that the Beartooth's were at one time as much as 20,000 feet (6,096 m) in altitude at least, but subsequent erosion for tens of millions of years has reduced them to an average of 12,000 feet (3,657 m) for the higher peaks. There are an estimated 300 lakes in the Beartooth region of Shoshone National Forest, some of them left behind by the last major ice age glaciation known as the Pinedale, which ended roughly 10,000 years ago. The Beartooth Highway (U.S. Highway 212), crosses 10,974 foot (3,345 m) Beartooth Pass, and from there descends to the northeast entrance to Yellowstone National Park.

The Wind River Range is in the southern portion of the forest and are composed primarily of granitic rock, gneiss and schist. Gannett Peak at 13,804 feet (4,207 m), is the highest peak in Wyoming and another seven peaks also exceed 13,500 feet (4,115 m). In total, over 230 mountains rise above 12,000 feet (3,600 m). Most of the glaciers found in the forest are located in the Wind River Range and counting those found in the Absarokas and Beartooths, there are a total of 156 of them; the most in any single forest in the U.S. outside of Alaska. Dinwoody glaciers are a series of massive glacial features that are found in the northern Wind River Range near Gannett and Fremont Peaks. The seven largest glaciers in the U.S. outside of Alaska are also located in the immediate area. This range is also popular with mountain climbers from all over the world due to the sheer cliff faces and excellent stabilty of the rocks for rope anchoring points. The Cirque of the Towers in the Popo Agie Wilderness is one of the more popular climbing and hiking destinations, and an estimated 200 different climbing routes are located within the peaks that surround the cirque. Hundreds of lakes are located in this region as are the headwaters of the Wind River.

At least 700 named lakes are located in the forest, as well as 2,500 miles (4,023 km) of streams and rivers. The Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River is designated as a National Wild and Scenic River for 22 miles (35 km) through the forest, with cliffs towering up to 2,000 feet (610 m) as the river winds through a gorge also named for the river. All of the forest is located immediately east of the Continental Divide and all the water that flows out of the forest eventually empties into the Atlantic Ocean basin.

Wilderness

Four wilderness areas are found within the forest that total 1.5 million acres (6,000 km²) and include the North Absaroka, Washakie, Fitzpatrick and Popo Agie Wildernesses. Additionally, a small portion of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness extends into the extreme north western part of the forest, along the Montana border.

The Wilderness Act of 1964 was the beginning of an effort to enhance protection status to remote and or undeveloped sections of acreage already contained within federally administered land areas. Passage of the act ensured that no human improvements would take place aside from those already existing. This includes road and building construction, oil and mineral exploration or extraction, logging and prohibits the use of motorized equipment, including even bicycles. The only manner in which people can enter wilderness designated areas is either on foot or horseback. Hunting and fishing are permitted provided those engaging in such activities have the proper licenses and permits.

Recreation

Over half a million visitors will spend at least one night in the forest in an average year. There are 30 vehicle access campgrounds scattered around the forest with up to 27 individual sites each. Approximately half of these campgrounds provide running water and restroom facilities and also provide for handicapped accessibility. Referred to as "front country" campgrounds, they also permit recreational vehicle access in most cases. All of the campgrounds are on a first come, first served basis except for the Rex Hale campground which is on the National Recreation Reservation Service; a phone and web based system that allows tourists to reserve a site months ahead of time. Due to the presence of Grizzly Bears, some of the campgrounds require what is referred to as "hard-sided" camping only and tent camping is not permitted. For some visitors, the greater solitude of the "backcountry" requires accessing Hiking trails and then backpacking into more remote destinations. There are dozens of trails which total over 1,500 miles (2,400 km) spread out throughout the forest. The Continental Divide Trail weaves its way through the forest though it follows alternatively named trails for some of the distance.

Hunting and fishing are popular recreational activities and are permitted throughout the forest, provided that proper permits are obtained and the applicable rules and regulations are followed. Hunting regulations are altered each year to ensure certain species are protected from over hunting and to maximize personal safety. There are over a dozen species of game fish that are a naturally occurring including six subspecies of trout. Many of the streams and rivers within the forest are considered to be Blue Ribbon Trout Streams. 1,700 miles of streams and 500 lakes that one can legally fish from provide plenty of elbow room during even the most crowded of fishing seasons. Hunting and fishing licenses are sponsored by the state of Wyoming and are available through the state department of fish and game.

Since some sections of the forest and especially wilderness areas are oftentimes remote and not everyone wishes to hike into them on foot, there are numerous trails that provide access by way of horseback. Trailheads usually provide enough room for horse and pack animal trailers plus personal vehicles. A number of private operations provide pack trips for a few days to a few weeks into the forest. Most but not all of the private enterprises that provide guided pack trips are monitored and or licensed by Shoshone National Forest and all food and camping gear are provided for the most part.

Along forest access roads, all terrain vehicles are allowed. There is an active management plan which is redesignating the locations for this type of activity to ensure visitors are well informed as to where this activity is allowed and where it is illegal as it is considered to be relatively destructive to the terrain and creates a problem with noise abatement.

The southern sections of the forest in the Wind River Range is the primary destination for mountain climbers. 29 of the highest 30 peaks in Wyoming are located here and the mountains are primarily of granitic rock with countless cliffs and sheer rock walls. The Cirque of the Towers is particularly popular as it has numerous peaks within a relatively short distance of each other.

Winter activities include cross-country skiing and snowmobiling. The Continental Divide Snowmobile Trail. With up to 40 feet of snow annually in the higher elevations, the snowmobile season extends usually from the beginning of December to the middle of April. Lander, Wyoming, Cody, Wyoming and the area near Togwotee Pass are the hubs of snowmobile activity in the forest. Numerous outfitters rent snowmobiles on a daily basis and can provide guided trips for those less experienced. A number of motels also remain open during the winter to provide food and lodging. Yellowstone National Park has commenced restricting snowmobile use within the park and consequently, the forest has seen an upswing in the number of snowmobilers. Many of the trails are "groomed" and marked to maximize safety, but many areas are off trail, but should only be ventured into by the more experienced adventurers that are familiar with the equipment and the region.

Tourism

An estimated 2 million visitors pass through Shoshone National Forest each year, many of them on their way to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. Outside of the main roads through the forest, there are oftentimes few tourists aside from those who are looking for isolation. Many trails and the more remote regions of the forest have few if any visitors recorded annually. The towns of Cody and Lander, Wyoming have numerous lodging and dining opportunities as well as small municipal airports. If arriving by air to the region, it may be best to fly to Billings, Montana or Jackson, Wyoming and travel to the forest by rented vehicle. The closest major international airport is located in Salt Lake City, Utah. Along several of the scenic roads through the forest, there are isolated recreational ranches and motels to be found. Due to particularily heavy tourism between the months of June and September it is strongly advised that visitors make advance reservations for lodging. Shoshone National Forest also has a few cabins that can rented and which can be reserved. The Rex Hale campground is on the National Recreation Reservation system and can be reserved, while the remaining campgrounds are all on a first come first served basis.

Two visitor centers provide orientation, books, maps, and interpretive displays and are staffed by either forest service interpretors or volunteers. The Wapiti Wayside is located on the Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway, west of Cody, Wyoming adjacent to the historic Wapiti Ranger Station. Another visitor center is located to the south in Lander, Wyoming.

As a gateway to two entrances leading into Yellowstone National Park from the east, the forest has a number of scenic roadways. A federally designated All-American Road, the Beartooth Highway (U.S. Highway 212), weaves through the forest and serves as the northeastern entranceway to Yellowstone National Park. Immediately south of the Beartooth Highway, the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway (Wyoming route 296) follows the old trail in which Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce tribe attempted to flee the U.S. Cavalry in 1877. South of there, Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway (US 14/16/20) heads west from Cody, Wyoming and crosses Sylvan Pass as it enters Yellowstone. Lastly, the Wyoming Centennial Scenic Byway (US 26/287) heads west from Dubois, Wyoming, over Togwotee Pass and enters Jackson Hole and Grand Teton National Park. The Chief Joseph, Buffalo Bill Cody and Wyoming Centennial byways have all been designated by the U.S. Government as National Scenic Byways.

External links

• Shoshone National Forest Federal website
• Shoshone National Forest information
• Campground information
• Fishing information
• Wilderness Act
• Wyoming Climate overview
• National Interagency Fire Center
• National Fire Plan website
• America's Byways listing of scenic roads
• Image of Wapiti Ranger Station listed on National Register of Historic Places
• Wyoming Tourism information
• Continental Divide Trail, map and information page

References

• Roadside Geology of the Yellowstone Country, William J. Fritz, (Mountain Press Publishing Company, Missoula; 1985) ISBN 0-87842-170-X
• Geology of National Parks: Fifth Edition, Ann G. Harris, Esther Tuttle, Sherwood D., Tuttle (Iowa, Kendall/Hunt Publishing; 1997) ISBN 0-7872-5353-7
• Geology of U.S. Parklands: Fifth Edition, Eugene P. Kiver, David V. Harris (New York; John Wiley & Sons; 1999; pages 592-596) ISBN 0-471-33218-6

See also

• National Forest
• Conservation movement
• Forestry
• Forest fire

• IUCN Category VI
• U.S. National Forests
• Geography of Wyoming